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Today I explain how to repair a damaged power connector also known as power jack in Toshiba Satellite L305 and L355 laptops. I started covering this problem in one of the previous posts.
Also this power jack modification should work for the following models: Toshiba Satellite L300, L305D, L355D, P305, P305D, Toshiba Satellite Pro L300, L350 and probably some other Toshiba laptops.
PROBLEM DESCRIPTION. The power jack gets pushed into the laptop base so it feels loose.
I will replace the original plastic jack with a generic metal jack purchased at RadioShack for about $3.
The RadioShack part number is 274-1576. This jack is designed for tip size 5.5mm O.D.x2.5mm I.D. You can order this jack online or pick it up in a local store.
Proceed on your own risk! If you do something wrong, you can damage the laptop.
In order to access and repair the power jack it’s necessary to disassemble the laptop and remove the top cover assembly (palm rest). Here’s an example of removing the top cover assembly from a Toshiba Satellite L355D, you’ll have to follow steps 1-14.
Disassembly steps for all above mentioned models will be very similar.
OK, let’s say the top cover is removed and we are inside the laptop. By the way, I’m fixing a Satellite L305D laptop.
Why the power jack feels loose? You see the answer on the picture below.
In my case both, the power jack and mounting brackets on the base assembly got broken. Even if you replace the broken jack with a new one, it will not stay attached to the base. If you send a laptop with a damage like that to a repair shop, they will recommend replacing the power jack harness and laptop base. This repair will easily cost over $200 but I have a better idea how to fix it for $3 without replacing the base assembly.
Here’s my new replacement panel-mount jack which should last for a long time unlike the original Toshiba jack.
All laptops mentioned above come with one of the following AC adapter: 19v-3.42A, 19V-3.95A, 19V-4.74A or 19V-6.3A.
All these power adapter will fit perfectly into the jack from RadioShack.
LET’S START THE REPAIR.
STEP 1.
Using a pocket knife remove plastic supports from the internal side of the base assembly, so the side where the new jack will be mounted is flat.
On the picture below you see plastic supports removed.
STEP 2.
Again, using the pocket knife remove the plastic wall surrounding the mounting hole. Make the hole larger, so then new jack fits in.
STEP 3.
The new jack is too long and if you install it as is the laptop cover will not sit properly on the base. It happens because one of the speakers (in Satellite L305D) is located very close to the power jack.
It will work if you make the jack shorter. You can cut off part of the long “-” lead or simply bent it as I did. After it’s done coat both leads with generous amount of solder.
STEP 4.
Now remove the damaged power jack from the laptop and cut off wires somewhere close to the jack base.
Remove isolation, twist wires and coat them with solder.
The red “+” wire will connect to the lead in the center of the new jack.
The black “-” wire will connect to the lead on the side – the one you made shorter.
In some laptops Toshiba uses green wires instead or red wires. They also should be soldered to the “+” lead in the center of your new jack.
WARNING! Check the polarity before you apply power to the laptop.
STEP 5.
Now mount the new power jack on the base.
STEP 6.
Solder wires to the new jack. Again, the red wire is soldered to the lead in the center and the black on to the lead on the side.
As you see, I soldered wires at a 90 degree angle to the jack so the top cover (and the right speaker) fits in.
I covered both leads with electrical tape.
The new (modified) power harness has been installed into the laptop base. Now you can tighten the nut on the power jack and secure it on the base.
STEP 7.
You’ll have to modify the top cover assembly a little bit so it fits on the laptop.
Remove plastic reinforcement walls so they do not touch the power jack when the cover is installed. If you leave these walls, there will be a gap between the cover and base.
The plastic walls have been removed.
STEP 8.
Assemble the laptop. You are done!
I think the new power jack is way more robust then the original one and should last for a long time.
And it looks great too.
Here’s an example of damaged power jack in a Satellite L355D laptop. This base is bigger than in Satellite L305 and you’ll have plenty of space for your modification.
Here’s another example of damaged base assembly in a Satellite P305D laptop. Again, there is plenty of space for the jack modification.
By the way, if your laptop is still under warranty, Toshiba might fix this problem at no charge. Call them first or take the laptop to the authorized repair center.
If this modification works for you, please mention the laptop model in the comments. You are welcome to post any suggestions and improvements.
If you find this article useful, please consider making a donation to the author. Thank you!
February 8th, 2010 at 11:09 pm
Stacey,
Yes, that’s the trick! The generic jack has same size as the existing factory jack. The generic jack works fine with the original factory adapter.
February 8th, 2010 at 4:38 am
Is the jack in this tutorial that same size as the existing (bad) jack. Will the same ac adapter work with it. As luck would have it, the one that I am fixing is an L305D. If the same adapter will not work, do you know which ac adapter I would need to get. Thanks so much for the help.
February 7th, 2010 at 4:20 pm
david,
You’ll have to solder.
February 6th, 2010 at 8:00 am
hi. could you use conductive silver paint instead of soldering?
February 5th, 2010 at 6:44 pm
Dude, you rock!
Awesome tutorial, worked fine on the L305. There was a slight bulge in the case from the speaker crowding problem, but it was not really a problem. Total work time about 1 hour.
Thank you!
February 3rd, 2010 at 7:39 am
This worked like a miracle for my Satellite A135 (S4427). The problem I had before I did the fix was that the jack itself was dead. I was having to wiggle the cord to get it to work, then it died completely. I opened the computer and realized I’d have to get a new jack. I was frustrated until I read this fix.
I didn’t have to shorten the long lead on the jack in the A135. It fit in there with no trouble. I widened the hole by using drill bits of increasing size, and twisting them by hand. The inside plastic support walls I removed with a pair of wire nippers and pliers.
January 30th, 2010 at 7:46 am
Thanks very much for this guide to replacing the power jack on my otherwise-admirable Toshiba Satellite L305.
A question before I begin opening the computer:
I’m reading the (generic) Satellite L355D disassembly instructions, steps 1 through 14. Why is it necessary – or IS it necessary – to remove the modem, wireless card and DVD drive, if one’s goal is to remove the keyboard and top cover for access to the jack?
I may well be misreading your instructions; perhaps it will become apparent why these components should be removed, once I get into it. Thanks for any replies.
January 27th, 2010 at 11:23 am
I used this website also and installed the power jack for a toshiba P305D and that part is working ….. atleast the plug light and battery light are working now, but the laptop will not power on?? Any suggestions….anyone??
Thanks
Shirl
January 26th, 2010 at 10:50 am
This rocks!!!! Thought I was screwed, until I found this great tutorial.
I did this procedure on a Toshiba A-305, opening just had to b shaved a tiny bit with an exacto knife. Connector fits like a glove and is way more sturdy. $5 for connector and shrink wrap.
Thank you!
January 24th, 2010 at 12:32 am
Well I must say that this site was very helpful. I had never taken my Toshiba Satellite L355D apart before. The power jack was broke off inside the laptop. I had some quotes to have it fix is was going to be close to $200.00 dollars. I did price the factory plug i located one for $50.00 dollars. Then after reading your site i decided to take this on i had nothing to lose. I went to Radio Shack and got the generic connector which was $3.00 dollars like you said. And took my time taking it apart while just following your steps. It took me 2 hours to fix but i didnt hurry at all. Plugged it up works like a champ. So i want to say Thank You for this site it was very helpful.
January 23rd, 2010 at 2:01 am
i did the repair but it will not charge and no lights come on now
January 21st, 2010 at 4:19 pm
Gina,
The last picture shows base assembly for a Satellite P305D. I think this base has plenty of space for a new generic jack.
It should work if you do everything correctly.
January 20th, 2010 at 6:22 pm
Hello…..
Great site. But I am working on a Toshiba Satellite P305D-S8828. The power socket is broken and it needs to be replaced.
My husband is insistent that this guide will not work (the one for the L305D is the one listed here). Please help!!!!
Thanks!!!
January 17th, 2010 at 3:37 pm
Awesome guide!!! Took me 20minutes tops, the part was in-stock at our local radio shack and also bought the soldering gun and solder there total price like $15 Again THANK YOU!
January 14th, 2010 at 9:30 am
Great work!! Thanks for the excellent repair guide. Definitely made the job easy.
January 11th, 2010 at 6:11 pm
Well how comes when I slip the charger into the charging port and have it connected and all chordes hucked up it still won’t charge
January 11th, 2010 at 2:01 pm
thanks a million worked fine ……..
January 10th, 2010 at 6:15 pm
Worked great! Got the part from Radio Shack. Followed the instructions to the T and my 9-year old is now a happy camper. Thanks! I have to say it looks better as well. Verty sturdy and stylish.
January 7th, 2010 at 3:37 pm
Just did this on a toshiba for a client of mine. Works like a chap and looks sick!
January 4th, 2010 at 9:45 pm
Hi did everything step by step to the letter T now getting an error message thats says can not connect all drives when I click on the ballon takes me to a device manager which says memory drive cannot connect and it assigned it the drive letter Z …
January 3rd, 2010 at 11:40 pm
Mason,
It doesn’t work because when the base is broken the power jack gets pushed inside the case and you cannot plug in the AC adapter.
January 3rd, 2010 at 6:28 pm
I would like to know why if the base is broken it doesn’t work? I was thinking it was a safty feature but idk
December 30th, 2009 at 10:06 am
Chris,
I’m not sure if your Satellite U400 has enough space for the new generic jack. I guess if the DC jack is broken, you’ll have to buy another original Toshiba jack (Part number A000024450) and replace the damaged one.
You’ll find disassembly guide for Satellite U400/U405 laptops at http://www.Irisvista.com/tech/
December 30th, 2009 at 8:08 am
I’ve just done the mod on my L300 and it was fairly straightforward and has made a massive difference! Thank you SO much!
For those of us in the UK, the only place to get hold of these jacks with the flange on the front (rather than the nut on the front) is pixmania:
http://www.pixmania.co.uk/uk/uk/1147401/art/radioshack/metal-panel-mount-coaxial.html
They’re only £1 each and the seller is very good.
A few things to note:
BUY AT LEAST TWO JACKS. I messed up the first time and broke one of the terminals off. (They’re quite brittle.) They’re so cheap and definitely worth having in the cupboard.
The knurling on the flange is quite soft. If you grip or screw the thing in with a pair of pliers, you will mangle the ridges straight away, and it won’t look very nice. Either protect the pliers VERY well with tape, or do all the gripping using the body of the jack further back.
On my L300, there is no cutting to be done. No bits of plastic get in the way whatsoever.
For the L300, here is a slightly modified how-to, that takes into account the slight model differences:
There are only two kinds of screws: F6 and F3. F6 are small; F3 are tiny.
1. Remove the bezel and the two F3 screws securing the keyboard. Remove the keyboard and unplug it.
2. Where the keyboard was, remove all the F6 screws that look like they’re holding the top cover.
3. TURN IT OVER! Undo the single cap-head screw holding the memory cover in the middle, open it and remove the single F6 screw that it reveals. This releases the optical drive.
4. With it still upside down, remove ALL F6 screws, and the three F3 screws in the battery compartment.
5. Turn it the right way up and remove the two conspicuous cables plugging into the top of the motherboard: one is a little ribbon to the touchpad, and one is a little white plug for the speakers.
6. It should now require little force to remove the top cover. There are clips to ease open along the sides.
7. Slide the optical drive out the side of the laptop. This gives better access.
8. The power wires run from the motherboard to the jack. Unplug it and remove it from its channel.
9. Instead of folding the outer terminal of the new jack over itself, simply bend the whole thing outwards to about 45 degrees, curving to a right angle if possible.
10. Cut, strip, twist and tin the end of the power wires.
11. Cut the little flange off the outside of the laptop, so the new jack will sit flat. DO NOT enlarge the hole – there is no need!
12. Screw the jack in. It is the right size to cut its own thread in the laptop casing. Remember to protect the knurling so you don’t chew it up. Stop screwing it in when it’s about flush and the negative terminal is at the point closest to the front of the laptop – this is essential for clearance.
13. *DIFFERENT FROM L305* Grab the top cover and put it roughly in place, and have a look under it from the front of the laptop. Observe the limited clearance between the end of the jack and the side of the box containing the speaker. This is why we bent the negative terminal outwards.
14. *DIFFERENT FROM L305* Solder the wires as above, but on the L300, you’ll need to solder the positive wire across, at right angles to the pin, so that the wire and solder does not intrude any further into the laptop than the end of the pin. The wire should come off the jack and travel towards the front of the laptop, then curve inwards. This way it will not foul the speaker box. I’m sorry I didn’t take a picture!
15. Re-route the wire – if you don’t feed it under the little hook that it was previously under, there should still be enough length to allow the little ferrite cube to sit in the little chair it was in before.
26. In true Haynes manual fashion, reassembly is the reverse of removal. The touchpad ribbon cable is not fully seated if you can still see the shiny surface of the connector pads on the ribbon. The keyboard cable is, however, seated with a little bit still visible.
27. Plug in and enjoy!
Jonathan
December 29th, 2009 at 10:49 am
Paul,
Yep, sounds like you’ve damaged the cable.
I believe in this laptop you can replace just the cable without replacing the whole touch pad. The problem is that these cables are not sold separately. The touch pad cables are sold with the touch pad board. Here’s the part number: V000140200
I found it for $10 here. Search by the part number I just mentioned.
Buy the touch pad assembly, disconnect the cable and install it into your laptop instead of the damaged cable.
December 29th, 2009 at 10:29 am
Ok, after superfluing the old jack back too many times, I decided to finally replace it like described above. In the process of taking apart the Toshiba L355D-S7815 the last time, I seemed to have messed up the cable that goes from the touchpad into the motherboard. It no longer works. The copper spots on the thin cable strip end are all messed up (I guess there is a limit to how many times you can unplug and replug it in
). Although I can use a USB mouse, I would still like to fix the issue. I can’t find any information on how to replace the touchpad anywhere. Can I just replace the cable somehow or do I need to replace the entire touchpad? In looking for a replacement touchpad, I noticed there are 2 part numbers listed. One is $26, the other over $50. Which one do I need if I can’t just fix the cable? Thanks for all your help!
December 29th, 2009 at 7:00 am
I was wondering if this repair would work for a U400. The problem being that the socket is at the back of the case and directly below the hinge for the screen? Also is it necessary to remove all the parts specified (Hard drive, memory and DVD ) in order to remove the top cover to gain access?
December 27th, 2009 at 7:18 pm
Which solder should I use?