Today I explain how to repair a damaged power connector also known as power jack in Toshiba Satellite L305 and L355 laptops. I started covering this problem in one of the previous posts.
Also this power jack modification should work for the following models: Toshiba Satellite L300, L305D, L355D, P305, P305D, Toshiba Satellite Pro L300, L350 and probably some other Toshiba laptops.
PROBLEM DESCRIPTION. The power jack gets pushed into the laptop base so it feels loose.
I will replace the original plastic jack with a generic metal jack purchased at RadioShack for about $3.
The RadioShack part number is 274-1576. This jack is designed for tip size 5.5mm O.D.x2.5mm I.D. You can order this jack online or pick it up in a local store.
Proceed on your own risk! If you do something wrong, you can damage the laptop.

In order to access and repair the power jack it’s necessary to disassemble the laptop and remove the top cover assembly (palm rest). Here’s an example of removing the top cover assembly from a Toshiba Satellite L355D, you’ll have to follow steps 1-14.
Disassembly steps for all above mentioned models will be very similar.
OK, let’s say the top cover is removed and we are inside the laptop. By the way, I’m fixing a Satellite L305D laptop.
Why the power jack feels loose? You see the answer on the picture below.
In my case both, the power jack and mounting brackets on the base assembly got broken. Even if you replace the broken jack with a new one, it will not stay attached to the base. If you send a laptop with a damage like that to a repair shop, they will recommend replacing the power jack harness and laptop base. This repair will easily cost over $200 but I have a better idea how to fix it for $3 without replacing the base assembly.

Here’s my new replacement panel-mount jack which should last for a long time unlike the original Toshiba jack.

All laptops mentioned above come with one of the following AC adapter: 19v-3.42A, 19V-3.95A, 19V-4.74A or 19V-6.3A.
All these power adapter will fit perfectly into the jack from RadioShack.

LET’S START THE REPAIR.
STEP 1.
Using a pocket knife remove plastic supports from the internal side of the base assembly, so the side where the new jack will be mounted is flat.

On the picture below you see plastic supports removed.

STEP 2.
Again, using the pocket knife remove the plastic wall surrounding the mounting hole. Make the hole larger, so then new jack fits in.

STEP 3.
The new jack is too long and if you install it as is the laptop cover will not sit properly on the base. It happens because one of the speakers (in Satellite L305D) is located very close to the power jack.
It will work if you make the jack shorter. You can cut off part of the long “-” lead or simply bent it as I did. After it’s done coat both leads with generous amount of solder.

STEP 4.
Now remove the damaged power jack from the laptop and cut off wires somewhere close to the jack base.

Remove insulation, twist wires and coat them with solder.
The red “+” wire will connect to the lead in the center of the new jack.
The black “-” wire will connect to the lead on the side – the one you made shorter.
In some laptops Toshiba uses green wires instead or red wires. They also should be soldered to the “+” lead in the center of your new jack.
WARNING! Check the polarity before you apply power to the laptop.

STEP 5.
Now mount the new power jack on the base.

STEP 6.
Solder wires to the new jack. Again, the red wire is soldered to the lead in the center and the black on to the lead on the side.

As you see, I soldered wires at a 90 degree angle to the jack so the top cover (and the right speaker) fits in.
I covered both leads with electrical tape.

The new (modified) power harness has been installed into the laptop base. Now you can tighten the nut on the power jack and secure it on the base.

STEP 7.
You’ll have to modify the top cover assembly a little bit so it fits on the laptop.
Remove plastic reinforcement walls so they do not touch the power jack when the cover is installed. If you leave these walls, there will be a gap between the cover and base.

The plastic walls have been removed.

STEP 8.
Assemble the laptop. You are done!
I think the new power jack is way more robust then the original one and should last for a long time.

And it looks great too.

Here’s an example of damaged power jack in a Satellite L355D laptop. This base is bigger than in Satellite L305 and you’ll have plenty of space for your modification.

Here’s another example of damaged base assembly in a Satellite P305D laptop. Again, there is plenty of space for the jack modification.

By the way, if your laptop is still under warranty, Toshiba might fix this problem at no charge. Call them first or take the laptop to the authorized repair center.
If this modification works for you, please mention the laptop model in the comments. You are welcome to post any suggestions and improvements.
If this fix works for any other Toshiba laptop, please mention the model number in the comments below.
As reported so far, this repair also worked on the following models:
Toshiba Satellite A305 – comment 110.
Toshiba Satellite A135 – comment 113.
Toshiba Satellite L300 – comment 145.
Toshiba Satellite L505D – comment 151.
Toshiba Satellite P305D – comment 164.
Toshiba Satellite P300 – comment 182.
Toshiba Satellite A200 – comment 189.
Toshiba Satellite A215 – comment 246.
Toshiba Satellite P305 – comment 264.
Toshiba Satellite L35 – comment 297.
Toshiba Satellite L515 – comment 315.
Toshiba Satellite C655 – comment 414.
Toshiba Satellite C655D – comment 468.
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October 1st, 2009 at 2:51 am
Thanks for the guide. Very helpful. This is the second time my power connector has broken on my L355D – it’s still under warranty, though, so I’ll be having it fixed by Toshiba. But, if it breaks again, I’ll try your solution here.
September 23rd, 2009 at 7:43 am
Josh,
I guess you purchased a wrong jack. There are different jacks available at Radio Shack, find one that fits your adapter.
September 23rd, 2009 at 6:55 am
I have a toshiba p205d-s7802 i have the same problem with the power jack did follow the step by step instructions, purchased the new power jack at radio shack however i notice that there is a significant size difference in the inner prong of the new power jack, it is slightly thinner…is that a cause for concern……input would be greatly appreciated as many others i’m being overcharged for such a simple procedure…thank you
September 11th, 2009 at 3:00 pm
My power port is having the same problems a second time, though I’ve used the warranty to get it fixed the first time. However, now the warranty is over and I’ll like to try your method. But before I start, can you give me detailed tips on the soldering portion. Not sure what that is or how to go about doing it. Thanks alot.
September 11th, 2009 at 2:46 pm
Thanks for the guidance – I went for a slightly different approach which involved simply glueing a small wedge of rubber to the side of the power socket so that the mini speaker mounted to the top cover fitted right next to power socket when re-assembled. The shim was around 3mm x 8mm x 10mm but I used a slice of an eraser (that’s a “rubber” for us Brits) and was able to shave bits off as required.
There is still a little lateral movement but it doesn’t move in anymore and I avoided having to visit Radioshack or break out the soldering iron! A new metal power socket does look a bit better though
September 7th, 2009 at 5:20 pm
marie,
I linked to the laptop disassembly guide in the post.
September 7th, 2009 at 3:44 pm
How do u open the lap top to replace that part
September 3rd, 2009 at 8:49 pm
I have had this same problem, bought an L305 in February (love the laptop, but probably wouldn’t have bought it if I had known about these issues) and had to have the port and keyboard replaced in late August. Barely two weeks later now, and the cord is wobbling again, but it will still charge, plug and unplug properly. Should I be concerned that the cord is wobbly in the base again so soon? I don’t want to replace the port with your steps just yet, as I am pretty sure that will negate the warranty, and it would be my luck that other issues arise, but to be safe I am printing the instructions for when that time comes. I would appreciate your feedback though on the fact that the port was just replaced and is already acting up again.
September 3rd, 2009 at 8:36 pm
WOW, this worked like a charm for me. I had never soldered before so there was a learning curve and I screwed it up once but the 2nd time held. I could not believe it when I powered it back up! BTW, my power cord/charger appears to have gone bad simultaneously. I had to replace it. Thanks for submitting!!!!!!
August 28th, 2009 at 4:47 pm
I have the same problem too but with mine it was broken since day 1 after i pulled it out of the box.
Boy i wonder if QC was paying attention.