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Today I explain how to repair a damaged power connector also known as power jack in Toshiba Satellite L305 and L355 laptops. I started covering this problem in one of the previous posts.
Also this power jack modification should work for the following models: Toshiba Satellite L300, L305D, L355D, P305, P305D, Toshiba Satellite Pro L300, L350 and probably some other Toshiba laptops.
I have a list of compatible models (reported by users) at the end of this post.
PROBLEM DESCRIPTION. The power jack gets pushed into the laptop base so it feels loose.
I will replace the original plastic jack with a generic metal jack purchased at RadioShack for about $3.
The RadioShack part number is 274-1576. This jack is designed for tip size 5.5mm O.D.x2.5mm I.D. You can order this jack online or pick it up in a local store.
Proceed on your own risk! If you do something wrong, you can damage the laptop.
In order to access and repair the power jack it’s necessary to disassemble the laptop and remove the top cover assembly (palm rest). Here’s an example of removing the top cover assembly from a Toshiba Satellite L355D, you’ll have to follow steps 1-14.
Disassembly steps for all above mentioned models will be very similar.
OK, let’s say the top cover is removed and we are inside the laptop. By the way, I’m fixing a Satellite L305D laptop.
Why the power jack feels loose? You see the answer on the picture below.
In my case both, the power jack and mounting brackets on the base assembly got broken. Even if you replace the broken jack with a new one, it will not stay attached to the base. If you send a laptop with a damage like that to a repair shop, they will recommend replacing the power jack harness and laptop base. This repair will easily cost over $200 but I have a better idea how to fix it for $3 without replacing the base assembly.
Here’s my new replacement panel-mount jack which should last for a long time unlike the original Toshiba jack.
All laptops mentioned above come with one of the following AC adapter: 19v-3.42A, 19V-3.95A, 19V-4.74A or 19V-6.3A.
All these power adapter will fit perfectly into the jack from RadioShack.
LET’S START THE REPAIR.
STEP 1.
Using a pocket knife remove plastic supports from the internal side of the base assembly, so the side where the new jack will be mounted is flat.
On the picture below you see plastic supports removed.
STEP 2.
Again, using the pocket knife remove the plastic wall surrounding the mounting hole. Make the hole larger, so then new jack fits in.
STEP 3.
The new jack is too long and if you install it as is the laptop cover will not sit properly on the base. It happens because one of the speakers (in Satellite L305D) is located very close to the power jack.
It will work if you make the jack shorter. You can cut off part of the long “-” lead or simply bent it as I did. After it’s done coat both leads with generous amount of solder.
STEP 4.
Now remove the damaged power jack from the laptop and cut off wires somewhere close to the jack base.
Remove insulation, twist wires and coat them with solder.
The red “+” wire will connect to the lead in the center of the new jack.
The black “-” wire will connect to the lead on the side – the one you made shorter.
In some laptops Toshiba uses green wires instead or red wires. They also should be soldered to the “+” lead in the center of your new jack.
WARNING! Check the polarity before you apply power to the laptop.
STEP 5.
Now mount the new power jack on the base.
STEP 6.
Solder wires to the new jack. Again, the red wire is soldered to the lead in the center and the black on to the lead on the side.
As you see, I soldered wires at a 90 degree angle to the jack so the top cover (and the right speaker) fits in.
I covered both leads with electrical tape.
The new (modified) power harness has been installed into the laptop base. Now you can tighten the nut on the power jack and secure it on the base.
STEP 7.
You’ll have to modify the top cover assembly a little bit so it fits on the laptop.
Remove plastic reinforcement walls so they do not touch the power jack when the cover is installed. If you leave these walls, there will be a gap between the cover and base.
The plastic walls have been removed.
STEP 8.
Assemble the laptop. You are done!
I think the new power jack is way more robust then the original one and should last for a long time.
And it looks great too.
Here’s an example of damaged power jack in a Satellite L355D laptop. This base is bigger than in Satellite L305 and you’ll have plenty of space for your modification.
Here’s another example of damaged base assembly in a Satellite P305D laptop. Again, there is plenty of space for the jack modification.
By the way, if your laptop is still under warranty, Toshiba might fix this problem at no charge. Call them first or take the laptop to the authorized repair center.
If this modification works for you, please mention the laptop model in the comments. You are welcome to post any suggestions and improvements.
If this fix works for any other Toshiba laptop, please mention the model number in the comments below.
Here are Toshiba laptop disassembly guides.
As reported so far, this repair also worked on the following models:
Toshiba Satellite A305 – comment 110.
Toshiba Satellite A135 – comment 113.
Toshiba Satellite L300 – comment 145.
Toshiba Satellite L505D – comment 151.
Toshiba Satellite P305D – comment 164.
Toshiba Satellite P300 – comment 182.
Toshiba Satellite A200 – comment 189.
Toshiba Satellite A215 – comment 246.
Toshiba Satellite P305 – comment 264.
Toshiba Satellite L35 – comment 297.
Toshiba Satellite L515 – comment 315.
Toshiba Satellite C655 – comment 414.
Toshiba Satellite C655D – comment 468.
Toshiba Satellite L455 – comment 512.
Toshiba Satellite P300D – comment 514.
Toshiba Satellite A505 – comment 518.
January 17th, 2012 at 1:59 am
This guide is f***ing brilliant. Used this guide to fix an L355 that was given to me for free by a coworker who was quoted $325 (!!!) from a local shop to fix it. Lord only knows what Toshiba would have asked for to do the same repair. You helped me score a (nearly) free laptop! Cheers!
January 14th, 2012 at 2:04 am
Hello,
I have a toshiba L300 I is do not manage to open him(it)… I have nevertheless to remove(kidnap) quite saw them but something blocks(surrounds) and I do not know what… Can use me. Thank you
January 13th, 2012 at 5:26 pm
This repair was cheap and easily accomplished. I think this took no more then 30 min to complete. Directions are easy to follow and seems to be a very durable repair. Thanks a bunch!
December 30th, 2011 at 2:56 pm
The plastic that held the power connector is broken, but not others to try it …
December 30th, 2011 at 12:00 pm
@ Angel,
Probably yes but I’m not sure 100%.
It looks like Lenovo Y430 using a 19V AC adapter, so the generic plug might work. But I would recommend buying it first and trying to fit you your AC adapter. Also, I don’t know if Lenovo Y430 has enough space inside for this modification. It’s necessary to open it up and look inside.
If nothing is broken, I would recommend just installing the original DC jack harness, without any modification.
December 30th, 2011 at 3:45 am
It can run on a Lenovo Y430 laptop?
December 28th, 2011 at 9:08 pm
Just completed this repair, worked great. Had to take apart computer twice. definitely unplug harness and solder out of the computer. Tight fit, so make sure you follow the suggestions.
December 23rd, 2011 at 3:12 pm
@ Vanessa,
Yes, you’ll have to remove them because some screws located under the hard drive, DVD drive, in memory compartment.
Here’s the guide: http://www.irisvista.com/tech/laptops/Toshiba-Satellite-L505-L505D/remove-laptop-motherboard-1.htm
Go though steps 1-17.
December 19th, 2011 at 8:58 am
I want to repair my Toshiba Satellite L505. I was looking at the guide on how to take it apart, my question is do I have to remove everything from the back to open up the front part to fix the jack. I mean the Hard drive, the memory modules and the optic drive. Thanks
December 15th, 2011 at 4:44 pm
Excellent writeup and description.
There have so far been 5 references to epoxy as a method of repair.
I want to point out there are TWO forms of epoxy which might be used: (1) epoxy glue, a 2 part sticky liquid that hardens into a clear plastic and (2) epoxy putty, a 2-color putty-like roll of plastic that is cut off the roll with a knife (in order to choose the amount you want to mix) then mixed by kneading the material until it is of a uniform color.
Epoxy glue is of use to tack items together, the greater the contact area between the items, the stronger the joint.
After epoxy putty is mixed this way, you have about 5 minutes to apply it before it hardens to a while hard plastic. Maximum hardening takes place in 24 hours, but it gets pretty hard pretty fast. It is not as sticky as epoxy glue, but does tend to adhere to many plastics. A solid block of cured epoxy putty would be as strong as a solid block of plastic forming the OEM power jack or the material of the laptop case itself.
I examined the photos of the defective power jack on this site. It looks like the plastic ridges that were designed to hold the jack in place tend to break off after the plug is inserted enough times. The OEM ridges don’t look very sturdy at all.
Even using epoxy glue, there is very little contact area available for the glue to link the OEM power jack and the case material. The less contact area, the weaker the joint.
However, the space around the OEM jack is mostly empty, there appear to be no critical computer components near the jack, just ridges & protrusions of the OEM case material.
My suggestion: Use a sufficient wad of mixed epoxy putty to wedge the OEM jack into its original location. Don’t put the putty over any electrical component besides the side & rear of the OEM jack, and don’t use so much that you wedge other parts of the laptop in place that you might want to remove later. Just pack the putty around the OEM jack so that when the putty hardens, it will have wedged the OEM jack in place so that it can’t be dislodged by anything short of a hammer blow or a drill.
My suggestion pre-supposes that the OEM power jack, its soldered connections and the adjacent inch or so or pigtail electrical cable are all in 100% good condition, and the problem is limited to the jack breaking free from its OEM ridges & tabs that used to hold it in place.
Epoxy putty used this way could eliminate the need to replace the OEM power jack with another and the need to solder a connection.
If the OEM jack fails later (which any jack can do at any time), the hardened epoxy putty can be drilled or abraded away with a rotating burr,or cut away with a knife, and another jack installed as per the instructions on this blog.