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Today I explain how to repair a damaged power connector also known as power jack in Toshiba Satellite L305 and L355 laptops. I started covering this problem in one of the previous posts.
Also this power jack modification should work for the following models: Toshiba Satellite L300, L305D, L355D, P305, P305D, Toshiba Satellite Pro L300, L350 and probably some other Toshiba laptops.
PROBLEM DESCRIPTION. The power jack gets pushed into the laptop base so it feels loose.
I will replace the original plastic jack with a generic metal jack purchased at RadioShack for about $3.
The RadioShack part number is 274-1576. This jack is designed for tip size 5.5mm O.D.x2.5mm I.D. You can order this jack online or pick it up in a local store.
Proceed on your own risk! If you do something wrong, you can damage the laptop.
In order to access and repair the power jack it’s necessary to disassemble the laptop and remove the top cover assembly (palm rest). Here’s an example of removing the top cover assembly from a Toshiba Satellite L355D, you’ll have to follow steps 1-14.
Disassembly steps for all above mentioned models will be very similar.
OK, let’s say the top cover is removed and we are inside the laptop. By the way, I’m fixing a Satellite L305D laptop.
Why the power jack feels loose? You see the answer on the picture below.
In my case both, the power jack and mounting brackets on the base assembly got broken. Even if you replace the broken jack with a new one, it will not stay attached to the base. If you send a laptop with a damage like that to a repair shop, they will recommend replacing the power jack harness and laptop base. This repair will easily cost over $200 but I have a better idea how to fix it for $3 without replacing the base assembly.
Here’s my new replacement panel-mount jack which should last for a long time unlike the original Toshiba jack.
All laptops mentioned above come with one of the following AC adapter: 19v-3.42A, 19V-3.95A, 19V-4.74A or 19V-6.3A.
All these power adapter will fit perfectly into the jack from RadioShack.
LET’S START THE REPAIR.
STEP 1.
Using a pocket knife remove plastic supports from the internal side of the base assembly, so the side where the new jack will be mounted is flat.
On the picture below you see plastic supports removed.
STEP 2.
Again, using the pocket knife remove the plastic wall surrounding the mounting hole. Make the hole larger, so then new jack fits in.
STEP 3.
The new jack is too long and if you install it as is the laptop cover will not sit properly on the base. It happens because one of the speakers (in Satellite L305D) is located very close to the power jack.
It will work if you make the jack shorter. You can cut off part of the long “-” lead or simply bent it as I did. After it’s done coat both leads with generous amount of solder.
STEP 4.
Now remove the damaged power jack from the laptop and cut off wires somewhere close to the jack base.
Remove insulation, twist wires and coat them with solder.
The red “+” wire will connect to the lead in the center of the new jack.
The black “-” wire will connect to the lead on the side – the one you made shorter.
In some laptops Toshiba uses green wires instead or red wires. They also should be soldered to the “+” lead in the center of your new jack.
WARNING! Check the polarity before you apply power to the laptop.
STEP 5.
Now mount the new power jack on the base.
STEP 6.
Solder wires to the new jack. Again, the red wire is soldered to the lead in the center and the black on to the lead on the side.
As you see, I soldered wires at a 90 degree angle to the jack so the top cover (and the right speaker) fits in.
I covered both leads with electrical tape.
The new (modified) power harness has been installed into the laptop base. Now you can tighten the nut on the power jack and secure it on the base.
STEP 7.
You’ll have to modify the top cover assembly a little bit so it fits on the laptop.
Remove plastic reinforcement walls so they do not touch the power jack when the cover is installed. If you leave these walls, there will be a gap between the cover and base.
The plastic walls have been removed.
STEP 8.
Assemble the laptop. You are done!
I think the new power jack is way more robust then the original one and should last for a long time.
And it looks great too.
Here’s an example of damaged power jack in a Satellite L355D laptop. This base is bigger than in Satellite L305 and you’ll have plenty of space for your modification.
Here’s another example of damaged base assembly in a Satellite P305D laptop. Again, there is plenty of space for the jack modification.
By the way, if your laptop is still under warranty, Toshiba might fix this problem at no charge. Call them first or take the laptop to the authorized repair center.
If this modification works for you, please mention the laptop model in the comments. You are welcome to post any suggestions and improvements.
If this fix works for any other Toshiba laptop, please mention the model number in the comments below.
As reported so far, this repair also worked on the following models:
Toshiba Satellite A305 – comment 110.
Toshiba Satellite A135 – comment 113.
Toshiba Satellite L300 – comment 145.
Toshiba Satellite L505D – comment 151.
Toshiba Satellite P305D – comment 164.
Toshiba Satellite P300 – comment 182.
Toshiba Satellite A200 – comment 189.
Toshiba Satellite A215 – comment 246.
Toshiba Satellite P305 – comment 264.
Toshiba Satellite L35 – comment 297.
Toshiba Satellite L515 – comment 315.
Toshiba Satellite C655 – comment 414.
Toshiba Satellite C655D – comment 468.
April 22nd, 2009 at 11:25 pm
I had a problem like that but I didn’t repair laptop myself because it was under warranty. I mailed it to a local authorized Toshiba center (Northwest Computer Support) and they replaced the bottom and power socket at no charge. I got my laptop a week later like new.
You can contact them and fix yours, here’s the link: http://www.nwcsupport.com/ContactUs.aspx
May 1st, 2009 at 6:28 pm
I have to say this was a life saver for me. For $3.00 and an hour of time I repaired my wifes L355D-S7825 (5 months old). I saw no point in getting it repaired with the same type of power jack which may or may not break again in 5 months.
I used a 7/16″ bit to enlarge the hole and a sharp chisel to remove the plastic bits other than that you procedure was perfect for me.
In the L355D there was plenty of room for the new jack to fit.
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!
May 1st, 2009 at 10:21 pm
Kenneth,
The Satellite L355D laptop has a larger case and fitting a new jack in should be a problem. Enjoy your new jack. I think it should last for a long time.
May 5th, 2009 at 10:19 pm
Kenneth,
I think this jack will last for a long time.
I used just a regular pocket knife because I didn’t have your tools.
May 6th, 2009 at 7:23 am
piece of cake L355d has room but my soldering sucks. took 1 hr. used a 3/4 drill bit to open hole ( didnt have a 7/16. after putting laptop back together forgot the Electrical tape. THANK YOU
May 18th, 2009 at 5:05 am
The step-by-step instructions, right down to the case modification, were crystal clear, and spot-on. After opening my nephew’s L355D, I noticed the jack and the base were both intact, and I was about to cement it back in. Then I figured, for $3 and about an hour of time (and a large Dunkin’ Donuts coffee) I would save myself the hassle of most likely having to do this again, and, ultimately having to replace the jack assembly anyway. I would, however, strongly recommend to anyone doing this procedure NOT to do this on the kitchen table with 2 curious cats running around. Otherwise, it’s really quite a simple procedure. Thanks for the clear, concise, accurate instructions! Z
May 28th, 2009 at 10:59 am
Havnt finished the actual repair yet, have to get out of work and run to radio shack for the parts however, i did prep everything so all i have left is the soldiering and such of the new jack. Spot on my friends this is most excellent. Im not really a electroincs guru, my knowledge goes thru high school electonics class, but what i am is a supporter or do it youself. this is much better then the repair would have costed me and the instructions are clear concise and get the job done. Spot on again my friends and i will update when the repair is complete. Doing the repair on a Satelite A-205a so far so good everything is matching up so add another to the list that this will work for. Thanks!!!!!!!
May 28th, 2009 at 10:16 pm
Colin,
Good luck! By the way, you can use these Toshiba Satellite A205 disassembly instructions.
May 30th, 2009 at 10:59 pm
Just did this today with a friend. We soldered wire to the jack then spliced with existing cable. Tested with a multimeter and found my power cable died, got a new one. Be careful when removing the keyboard ribbon, mine got damaged so I got a usb one to get me by. Also when reinstalling the memory, get it right or the display won’t work until you do.
May 31st, 2009 at 1:20 pm
Jared,
If you reassembled a laptop and the screen doesn’t come on, the first you have to check is the memory modules.
June 4th, 2009 at 6:34 pm
I did the process as you detailed, but for some reason my laptop still isn’t charging! There are no clear signs of the motherboard being cracked, or any of that but I feel I may have to disassemble it completely to look at the motherboard.
I have a toshiba satellite a205-s5000 by the way.. any ideas why it may not work?
June 6th, 2009 at 2:53 pm
Coby,
Did you test the AC adapter? Maybe the adapter is dead?
June 7th, 2009 at 8:20 pm
Yeah, the AC adapter is working.. i just bought it :/
I soldered everything solid.. so i’m almost sure thats not the problem..
im gonna do some more freelancing.. then buy a voltometer and maybe its one of the wires that has a short or something. I really should have gotten my A+ lol
June 14th, 2009 at 4:41 pm
I have a Toshiba Satellite L20 & a Toshiba Equium L20, (same mode, different name)
both have new battery’s after the old ones died, I purchased new battery’s for both
but they fail to charge at all (orange LED flashes constantly)
I heard that it’s a chip failure or lock out on the motherboard so as to prevent
damage, has anyone else experienced this problem & found a solution ?
June 20th, 2009 at 9:52 am
It was my nephews L305D. My brother-in-law asked me to look at it. If I hadn’t found this, I would have never attempted to disassemble. But this info, and the specific part number to use, were perfect. Thx!!!! All works great now!!!
June 24th, 2009 at 1:50 pm
Rob,
Maybe you got a bad battery?
Also, try updating BIOS to the latest version.
June 24th, 2009 at 8:57 pm
Wow cool info I’m about to do the same thing to my laptop it’s a 5 year old gateway mx7118 laptop. The DC jack that I’m replacing has six points that I must solderto the motherboard, two I think are for the power while the other four might be just to secure the casing of the jack to the motherboard. If I am to get a replacement jack like the one that you used because it does look more durable overtime and if I do manage to make it fit all then all that I need is to get two cable wires of certain gauge solder them to the motherboard and then to the terminal end of the jack. Will that be able to work or should I go about it another way.
June 28th, 2009 at 10:11 pm
Wondering if you guys can help. Brother’s laptop had had the damaged power jack for a while and the AC jack was just lose in there for a while but it was still working. One morning the laptop stopped working so we figured it was just the AC jack that had gone too far and it wasn’t charging, tested the AC and that turned out to not be working, tested it with another laptops AC with same power and laptop still wasn’t charging. We tried to do this mod and was looking great but when we went to turn it on the laptop was just makes some tapping sound, any ideas?
If no other ideas we are going to check with Toshiba on how much it would cost to fix without warranty, any idea how much this repair would cost?
June 29th, 2009 at 2:51 pm
BlinND,
If you soldered the new jack correctly but the laptop still not working, most likely it’s related to the motherboard.
June 30th, 2009 at 7:36 am
Well, we did have trouble soldering the middle pin, it was kind of hard getting it to stick to that smooth surface. I used a multimeter to test if power was going through and it was so I guess it is now a motherboard problem. Any idea how much a fix like this would cost without warranty through Toshiba?
July 1st, 2009 at 9:21 am
BliND,
Toshiba will not fix the motherboard, they will replace it with a new one. A replacement motherboard for a Satellite L305 will start from around $200. Plus you’ll have to pay labor charge. If you send this laptop to Toshiba, I would say you are looking at about $300. But call them and ask.
Send it directly to Toshiba (not authorized service center) because it might be cheaper.
July 2nd, 2009 at 1:13 pm
Ok, I figured it out. I guess it was just my soldering cause I redid it again this morning and it worked for a while, but again it stopped. Could I like cut some notches or drill a hole on the middle pin for the solder to stick better on it cause I’m pretty sure if I open the laptop again it probably came off. And really, thanks a lot for this guide!
July 2nd, 2009 at 1:28 pm
BliND,
I guess your soldering gun is not power enough. When I soldering the jack I didn’t have any problem. Make sure to use rosin-core solder.
Quote from Answers.com: “Solder made up in tubular or other hollow form, with the inner space filled with noncorrosive rosin flux.”
You can buy rosin -core solder in Radioshack ( Catalog #: 64-013 ). This solder will stick way better.
1. Unsolder wires from the jack.
2. Clean up contacts on the jack.
3. Apply a think layer of solder before soldering wires.
4. Solder wires.
July 8th, 2009 at 5:27 pm
Any chance this will work with A205 model?
July 10th, 2009 at 12:23 pm
Never mind
July 11th, 2009 at 3:05 pm
just applied to daughter’s Equium L350-10L (UK). She needs to use for school so unable to fit replacement power socket tonight., but Maplins JK10L at £1.59 is the UK equivalent and only needs an 8mm hole and is smaller overall @ 11mm dia and 21mm long.
As a temp repair, the locating lugs were not broken and I’ve rotated the existing socket thru 180 and refitted and put a brace section (modified an old desktop card blank cover) to provide support should she put too much pressure on the power lead when connecting. All rebuilt and working fine now; battery charging nicely.
Great info and descriptive pics; donation on the way. Will definitely use the site again (now a ‘favorite’. Thanks and keep up the good work.
July 11th, 2009 at 3:50 pm
I have an A305 satellite laptop. It will only charge if you push the adapter in real hard and hold. I disassembled and discovered the dc jack is broke off from the plastic guides. Since it will charge if pushed in hard enough, is this a power cord connector issue or the jack? I bought the parts to fix this with the co-axial solution, but am wondering if I might still have the same problem after doing this. Any suggestons?
July 12th, 2009 at 5:25 am
Great fix! I noticed that my power socket was loose and found this article. I was wondering how tight the socket is from new as i only have about 1mm of play up and down and about the same left to right with no movement in and out. Even with firm pressure the socket feels secure. I originally thought the socket was soldered directly to the board so any movement was bad news, but looking at the design i’m thinking that it might be normal. Any thoughts?
July 17th, 2009 at 9:16 am
Do I have to take apart the motherboard? like step 14 says?
July 18th, 2009 at 11:53 pm
kevin,
Do you mean remove the motherboard from the base in order to replace the jack? No, you can leave the motherboard in the base, just be careful.
July 21st, 2009 at 6:00 pm
The issue was with the power cord. After I replaced the jack, it still did not charge so I cut open the power card close to the connector and discovered a loose solder on the ground wire in the power card. I got a new power cord since the laptop was under warranty and now I have a much stronger power jack installed as well. All works fine.
August 3rd, 2009 at 6:24 pm
YOU SIR ARE MY HERO! Your guide just saved my laptop. The project took about an hour to complete. The only thing I did different was use a Dremel to shave down the unwanted plastic backets. Thank you!
August 5th, 2009 at 9:44 am
Thank you so very much for your excellent, detailed instructions. The power jack on my Wife’s ’17″ Toshiba was broken when a grandchild kick the cord running through the house. I warned my wife several times that was going to eventually happen because she is not careful where she plugs in her laptop. She needs her laptop for her home business and was devastated when she realized it could take days or weeks not to mention the expense to have it fixed. Researching the Internet for a repair service I found your instructions to dis-assemble the laptop and subsequently how to repair a broken jack. I ran out to Radio Shack to pick up the jack and within 3 hours of reading your instruction I had repaired my wife’s laptop. So the day after it was broken, I fixed it for 3 bucks. It works great and the new jack is much more sturdy. I do not understand why Toshiba doesn’t make jacks like that. The only thing I did differently was use a 7/16″ drill bit to open the hole for the new jack and it was a perfect fit. Also as another did, I used a dremel tool to remove the support plastic around the jack. Again thank you very much.
~eddie
August 5th, 2009 at 7:38 pm
Great work in providing the steps. This saved my nephews computer. He was about ready to throw it away but thankfully he called me first and when I found these steps I knew this is all he needed. He was so happy that I fixed the problem and he still had a laptop. He was so grateful and I think i’m now his best uncle and he now thinks I know rocket science.
Thanks a ton for taking the time to share.
August 9th, 2009 at 12:06 am
I just want to thank you very much, for putting these instructions online, i see that they have already been a huge success for many others, and i just finished on my satellite L355. My laptop was under warranty still but toshiba still refused to fix it, and considering the shop wanted $330 to fix it, i decided to do it myself. I have to admit, I was somewhat nervous about doing it as I have never attempted, nor had I ever seen anyone else ever open up a computer, but thanks to your clear and concise directions I now have a working laptop again. Thank you so much for taking the time to write out these directions, I will send a donation as soon as I am able to (next payday).
August 17th, 2009 at 12:54 pm
Thanks for the fix, turns out, my lappy, had three problems, bad jack, bad cord, and bad support for the jack, thankfully radio shack also stocked the end of the power cord, so all i had to do was solder that back together, and now my lappy works great,
August 24th, 2009 at 5:50 pm
Hi
thanks for sharing this, its really helpful. I have the same problem my power jack has been displaced, but my laptop goes on battery with this problem, its as if my charger doesnt supply the electricity enough. I have to push the cord in and put the computer in a weird position so it gets charged, which is very inconvient bc most of the time it goes back to battery. So not sure if my problem is the same?
But initially it was caused bc i accidently tripped over my charger and the power jack got displaced inside.
Is the battery problem being caused by the displaced power jack or is there something else?
thanks
August 24th, 2009 at 8:43 pm
Meena,
I cannot tell without looking at the laptop. It’s possible that you damaged the power cord when you tripped over the AC adapter but this is just a guess.
You’ll have to test the AC adapter with a voltmeter and find out if power cuts off when you move the cord.
August 27th, 2009 at 12:27 pm
Hey thanks for ur reply.
So i tried to use my charger on a different toshiba laptop and it was causing the same problems, if u slightly moved it, it would go on battery. So i am assuming the charger is damaged?
I also see the power jack inside the laptop displaced and pushed in, can that alone cause that problem too?
thanks
August 27th, 2009 at 12:36 pm
Meena,
Sounds like you have a faulty power adapter. Apparently the power cord is damaged and when you move it you shorting wires inside the cord.
I doubt it. Most like the jack is just dislocated because the jack housing is broken or the mounting bracket inside the case is broken. Try calling Toshiba, should be covered by the warranty.
August 28th, 2009 at 4:47 pm
I have the same problem too but with mine it was broken since day 1 after i pulled it out of the box.
Boy i wonder if QC was paying attention.
September 3rd, 2009 at 8:36 pm
WOW, this worked like a charm for me. I had never soldered before so there was a learning curve and I screwed it up once but the 2nd time held. I could not believe it when I powered it back up! BTW, my power cord/charger appears to have gone bad simultaneously. I had to replace it. Thanks for submitting!!!!!!
September 3rd, 2009 at 8:49 pm
I have had this same problem, bought an L305 in February (love the laptop, but probably wouldn’t have bought it if I had known about these issues) and had to have the port and keyboard replaced in late August. Barely two weeks later now, and the cord is wobbling again, but it will still charge, plug and unplug properly. Should I be concerned that the cord is wobbly in the base again so soon? I don’t want to replace the port with your steps just yet, as I am pretty sure that will negate the warranty, and it would be my luck that other issues arise, but to be safe I am printing the instructions for when that time comes. I would appreciate your feedback though on the fact that the port was just replaced and is already acting up again.
September 7th, 2009 at 3:44 pm
How do u open the lap top to replace that part
September 7th, 2009 at 5:20 pm
marie,
I linked to the laptop disassembly guide in the post.
September 11th, 2009 at 2:46 pm
Thanks for the guidance – I went for a slightly different approach which involved simply glueing a small wedge of rubber to the side of the power socket so that the mini speaker mounted to the top cover fitted right next to power socket when re-assembled. The shim was around 3mm x 8mm x 10mm but I used a slice of an eraser (that’s a “rubber” for us Brits) and was able to shave bits off as required.
There is still a little lateral movement but it doesn’t move in anymore and I avoided having to visit Radioshack or break out the soldering iron! A new metal power socket does look a bit better though
September 11th, 2009 at 3:00 pm
My power port is having the same problems a second time, though I’ve used the warranty to get it fixed the first time. However, now the warranty is over and I’ll like to try your method. But before I start, can you give me detailed tips on the soldering portion. Not sure what that is or how to go about doing it. Thanks alot.
September 23rd, 2009 at 6:55 am
I have a toshiba p205d-s7802 i have the same problem with the power jack did follow the step by step instructions, purchased the new power jack at radio shack however i notice that there is a significant size difference in the inner prong of the new power jack, it is slightly thinner…is that a cause for concern……input would be greatly appreciated as many others i’m being overcharged for such a simple procedure…thank you
September 23rd, 2009 at 7:43 am
Josh,
I guess you purchased a wrong jack. There are different jacks available at Radio Shack, find one that fits your adapter.
October 1st, 2009 at 2:51 am
Thanks for the guide. Very helpful. This is the second time my power connector has broken on my L355D – it’s still under warranty, though, so I’ll be having it fixed by Toshiba. But, if it breaks again, I’ll try your solution here.
October 3rd, 2009 at 8:54 am
Hello,
My wife’s L305D had the loose power socket. I opened it up with your instructions and found the adapter was just knocked out. No broken plastic or anything. I put it back into the guides and reassembled the unit. Checked the power cord and have power going into the unit. I also checked for power where the red and black wires connect to the laptop and had power. Still will not power up or charge.
Any thoughts???
Thanks in advance!
Thomas L.
October 3rd, 2009 at 9:44 am
My power connector has broken on my Toshiba L350 – bought in january 2009 and still under warranty.
Toshiba ordered me to send it by post 700km from home ! As I wanted to do faster, your solution seemed to me so interesting that I have followed it until page 2 step 11. I didn’t had to disconnect as shown on the step 9. An opening of 3 centimeters was enough to fix the problem.
Thank you very much for your advice.
ps : Have you somme feed back from Toshiba ? Of course Toshiba knows its kind of connector is too fragile. But sincerely with your help I know I will be able to do it again by my own.
October 4th, 2009 at 8:30 am
Hi, I followed your instructions in opening the laptop, and fixed the power port. Now I see the power button working and I could tell that there is power reaching the machine although the screen DOSE NOT DISPLAY ANYTHING. It is completly black as if the laptop is turned off although the laptop is turned on.
Any help please.
October 7th, 2009 at 9:34 pm
Ammar,
1. Make sure memory modules are seated correctly. The laptop will not start with improperly seated memory.
2. Make sure the video cable is properly plugged into the motherboard. Reconnect the cable just in case.
October 7th, 2009 at 9:48 pm
Thomas L.,
First of all, test the AC adapter. Maybe the adapter doesn’t output any power.
If it’s not the adapter, I guess you’ll have to take it apart again.
Remove the top cover and check if the power goes to the motherboard through the DC harness. Plug in the AC adapter into the jack and test voltage at the terminals where the harness is connected to the motherboard.
If the motherboard is getting power but there is no power light, most likely the motherboard is bad.
October 8th, 2009 at 7:29 am
Thomas L,
That’s funny, but right now I’m troubleshooting a Satellite L305D laptop with pushed power jack. Just in case I tested the AC adapter and it’s not putting out any voltage. It’s dead.
Again, before you disassemble the laptop, test the adapter.
October 8th, 2009 at 10:04 pm
[...] My previous post explains how to fix power port in Toshiba Satellite L305/L305D laptops. [...]
October 22nd, 2009 at 4:00 pm
I simply screwed the radio shack into the plastic with pliers. It is very solid and no cutting required. BETTER than new!!!
October 23rd, 2009 at 2:28 pm
i was wondering since the laptop i’m trying to fix has the black and green cables. could there be a chance that the polarity on this laptop is different. the reason why ask is that after changing the dc jack it burn the ac adapter but i also don’t know if the ac adapter was good to begin. also would the the ac adapter get mes up if the dc jack was push in?
October 23rd, 2009 at 2:34 pm
Abe,
It shouldn’t be different.
That’s way I always check the AC adapter before doing any repair. I cannot tell if your adapter was bad or you soldered something incorrectly without looking at the laptop.
Nope.
October 26th, 2009 at 5:52 pm
THANK YOU! I thought my laptop was done, and now it is better than new. Thank you for posting this information.
October 28th, 2009 at 11:48 am
This was so helpful, I was able to do the fix in less than an hour. Did not even take time to price the two toshiba parts. Thanks…
October 30th, 2009 at 9:30 am
i did everything the instructions were great but when i pluged it in after i finished it the computer wasnt chrging or getting any power at all the ac adapter was working i tested it on a nother computer; i deas on what could be wrong
if u have and idea on what to replace please give me the name and where to buy it.
thnz so much
October 30th, 2009 at 10:36 am
Mb,
I cannot tell what is wrong without looking at the laptop. Maybe the soldering is bad?
November 6th, 2009 at 8:04 am
Okay i did this mod, step by step. and the laptop now works great, but the second i put electrical tape on the wires, its starts buring the tape up. any ideas?
November 7th, 2009 at 12:07 pm
Bob,
Maybe bad soldering job? Try resoldering the wires.
November 12th, 2009 at 9:04 am
Great information, I found the RadioShack (274-1576) part on ebay U.K. for only £3.00 (including postage)
Only took about 45 minutes to do, but I made one silly error, I forgot about the nut ;-(
NOTE TO ALL: REMEMBER TO ADD NUT BEFORE SOLDERING
Laptop working/charging great and the conntector is solid, it will last for years.
Thank you
November 12th, 2009 at 9:12 am
Willie,
LOL
I made exactly the same mistake while creating this guide.
I forgot to add the nut before soldering the wires. After that you cannot put it on because of the ferrite core on the harness.
1. Add the nut.
2. Solder the wires.
November 17th, 2009 at 6:03 am
Hello Laptop Tech,
I must admit, you are a life saver (in money terms). lol!. I phoned up Toshiba to ask them how much it would be and withouth any second thoughts they said it’ll be £220.50 ($370.26), only to change the jack!!…Couldnt believe it mate. Anyways, i googled and found your website and followed the instruction one by one and made it happen. The jack is BETTER than new, (Yes, it is. If any Toshiba employee is reading this, your company is a scam). In total, it cost me £22.93. (tools, radioshack, electric tape, solder and soldering iron).
Glad you posted this. Thank you once again.
November 17th, 2009 at 9:38 am
London_Boy,
I’m happy to help. That’s why I keep this site up and running.
LOL. You can buy a brand new laptop for $370.
November 18th, 2009 at 11:03 am
Does this work on the L350D???
November 18th, 2009 at 12:04 pm
Is there an alternative place to get this part, Radio Shack says they no longer carry it?
November 18th, 2009 at 3:12 pm
Cory,
Yes, it should work, it’s similar to L355 or L355D.
Are you sure? It’s still available on their site.
November 24th, 2009 at 8:00 pm
Thank you for posting this! I just performed the fix on my wife’s laptop, and it worked like a charm. If (or maybe when) my own Toshiba’s power jack bites it, I have the parts on hand and waiting. Thanks again – saved us a bunch of money.
November 24th, 2009 at 8:01 pm
Whoops, forgot to mention – our computers are L355D’s.
November 25th, 2009 at 9:39 pm
will this work on a Toshiba L505D-S5965?
November 25th, 2009 at 10:32 pm
Javier,
I think it should work. Your Satellite L505D uses same type of AC adapter (19v-3.95A), so you can use same type of power jack from RadioShack.
Satellite L505/L505D has enough space to mount the power jack. Here are disassembly instructions for Satellite L500/L500D/L505/L505D laptops.
November 25th, 2009 at 10:55 pm
thank you for the info
November 27th, 2009 at 6:17 am
if i filp the wires and plug in the cord will that fry my computer or the adapter?
November 27th, 2009 at 10:18 pm
mb,
You can fry the motherboard.
December 2nd, 2009 at 12:29 am
Wow what a great guide and I can report I now have a working P300. I am in the UK and so I got part JK10L from Maplin (£1.59) and bought a soldering iron and solder. Guide for taking the laptop was nice and detailed and despite it being a complex laptop a bit of patience and it was in bits!
The maplin connector has 3 connectors so a multi meter helps to determine which is positive and which is negative. I used a drill to enlarge the power adapter hole and the new power adapter screwed in without any issues at all.
Thanks for the great guide!
December 3rd, 2009 at 8:07 am
Great walk-through, I loved the detailed pics. I followed the instructions on my L355, and got it back together with no parts left over. However, now it will not boot. I can plug it in, and I get the indicator light below the touchpad showing that it is charging, but the screen never comes on. I can hear the fan, the hard drive spin-up, and the DVD accessing, but absolutely nothing on the screen. After about 8 or 9 seconds, the computer shuts itself off for about 3 seconds, then tries to boot again with the same result. I get the same problem with the unit unplugged if I hit the soft power button above the keyboard. Closing the unit stops the cycle.
I took it back apart to look for anything obvious, but I can’t see what I did wrong. I imagine it is something that I left unclipped, but nothing sticks out at me. Any advice you could offer based on these symptoms? Is there more info I could provide?
Once again, thanks for a great walkthrough. I’m sure whatever I did wrong was something pretty simple, as it is hard to go wrong with instructions that are this detailed.
December 4th, 2009 at 2:26 am
Well, I feel sheepish. After reassembling it twice, I still didn’t have the RAM seated properly. When I started to go for the third time, I noticed it as soon as I removed the cover. So, other readers, if you get the same symptoms I did, try re-seating your RAM. Once again, thank you for creating this web site and taking the time to help out many people you will never even meet.
December 5th, 2009 at 2:38 pm
Thanks for the excellent tip! I’ve got this working on my girlfriend’s computer with no difficulties, and after installing Win7 as well, it’s got a completely new lease on life. The model is L305-S5902. On this model, you don’t need to widen the hole that you put the jack through. If you buy the part suggested by the author (which is hard to find in a RadioShack store), it’s threaded, and it’s enough to tighten it through the plastic with pliers.
December 8th, 2009 at 5:18 pm
Like many others, I’ll add my thanks. Everything worked fine. I hope others note that they can make a PayPal donation – after all, you saved many of us a considerable sum and I’m sure it takes more time that most realize to lay out a set of clear instructions with photos and all.
My main fear was in separating the bottom from the top and also when I removed the keyboard cable and there was no end on it – it wasn’t clear to me that there is no “plug” on this ribbon cable (and a couple of others later on). Also, the directions called for following steps 1-14 but I don’t think #14 was necessary. I also missed the links to page 1,2,3 of the disassembly for quite a while – they look pretty obvious now.
Thanks again.
December 13th, 2009 at 8:23 am
My girlfriend had a similar problem with her L305D the adapter was really loose so when she plugged in her adapter it wasn’t making a good connection. So I removed the top cover and carefully superglued the plastic adapter to the side of the laptop. The ac input is now nice and solid and the adapter plugs in nicely with no play, but unfortunately there is no longer any power at all getting to the laptop so it wont turn on. There appears to be no damage to the motherboard. I was just wondering if anybody else experienced this issue and if they did how they resolved it.
Thanks
December 13th, 2009 at 5:05 pm
thanks very much, keep up the great work. Very detailed and informative.
December 16th, 2009 at 7:13 pm
Worked great on my L305D. Thanks!
December 20th, 2009 at 4:04 pm
I used the procedure on a Satellite Pro L300. All went well, however, removing the top cover is slghtly different. There are 5 additional screws to remove at this stage and only two of the cables need to be disconnected. I liked the use of the guitar pick! Brilliant!
Fixed the DC jack with no problem. Then I converted the notebook to bluetooth by soldering a small BT dongle to a USB port so that the dongle is now located inside the machine. Cheap and easy to do but you lose one USB port.
Thanks for a superb guide which gave me the confidence to tackle a job for which I was quoted £100! Cost me less than £10 including the dongle – and a couple hours sat in the kitchen instead of going down the pub!
Cheers and Merry Christmas!
December 22nd, 2009 at 5:41 pm
Thank you SO MUCH for this clear, detailed set of instructions….my laptop is better than new. I found your site and printed out the instructions, bought the metal jack at Radio Shack for 2.99, and a couple of guys at my husband’s work did the fix in under 30 minutes! I’m so happy!!!
December 27th, 2009 at 7:18 pm
Which solder should I use?
December 29th, 2009 at 7:00 am
I was wondering if this repair would work for a U400. The problem being that the socket is at the back of the case and directly below the hinge for the screen? Also is it necessary to remove all the parts specified (Hard drive, memory and DVD ) in order to remove the top cover to gain access?
December 29th, 2009 at 10:29 am
Ok, after superfluing the old jack back too many times, I decided to finally replace it like described above. In the process of taking apart the Toshiba L355D-S7815 the last time, I seemed to have messed up the cable that goes from the touchpad into the motherboard. It no longer works. The copper spots on the thin cable strip end are all messed up (I guess there is a limit to how many times you can unplug and replug it in
). Although I can use a USB mouse, I would still like to fix the issue. I can’t find any information on how to replace the touchpad anywhere. Can I just replace the cable somehow or do I need to replace the entire touchpad? In looking for a replacement touchpad, I noticed there are 2 part numbers listed. One is $26, the other over $50. Which one do I need if I can’t just fix the cable? Thanks for all your help!
December 29th, 2009 at 10:49 am
Paul,
Yep, sounds like you’ve damaged the cable.
I believe in this laptop you can replace just the cable without replacing the whole touch pad. The problem is that these cables are not sold separately. The touch pad cables are sold with the touch pad board. Here’s the part number: V000140200
I found it for $10 here. Search by the part number I just mentioned.
Buy the touch pad assembly, disconnect the cable and install it into your laptop instead of the damaged cable.
December 30th, 2009 at 8:08 am
I’ve just done the mod on my L300 and it was fairly straightforward and has made a massive difference! Thank you SO much!
For those of us in the UK, the only place to get hold of these jacks with the flange on the front (rather than the nut on the front) is pixmania:
http://www.pixmania.co.uk/uk/uk/1147401/art/radioshack/metal-panel-mount-coaxial.html
They’re only £1 each and the seller is very good.
A few things to note:
BUY AT LEAST TWO JACKS. I messed up the first time and broke one of the terminals off. (They’re quite brittle.) They’re so cheap and definitely worth having in the cupboard.
The knurling on the flange is quite soft. If you grip or screw the thing in with a pair of pliers, you will mangle the ridges straight away, and it won’t look very nice. Either protect the pliers VERY well with tape, or do all the gripping using the body of the jack further back.
On my L300, there is no cutting to be done. No bits of plastic get in the way whatsoever.
For the L300, here is a slightly modified how-to, that takes into account the slight model differences:
There are only two kinds of screws: F6 and F3. F6 are small; F3 are tiny.
1. Remove the bezel and the two F3 screws securing the keyboard. Remove the keyboard and unplug it.
2. Where the keyboard was, remove all the F6 screws that look like they’re holding the top cover.
3. TURN IT OVER! Undo the single cap-head screw holding the memory cover in the middle, open it and remove the single F6 screw that it reveals. This releases the optical drive.
4. With it still upside down, remove ALL F6 screws, and the three F3 screws in the battery compartment.
5. Turn it the right way up and remove the two conspicuous cables plugging into the top of the motherboard: one is a little ribbon to the touchpad, and one is a little white plug for the speakers.
6. It should now require little force to remove the top cover. There are clips to ease open along the sides.
7. Slide the optical drive out the side of the laptop. This gives better access.
8. The power wires run from the motherboard to the jack. Unplug it and remove it from its channel.
9. Instead of folding the outer terminal of the new jack over itself, simply bend the whole thing outwards to about 45 degrees, curving to a right angle if possible.
10. Cut, strip, twist and tin the end of the power wires.
11. Cut the little flange off the outside of the laptop, so the new jack will sit flat. DO NOT enlarge the hole – there is no need!
12. Screw the jack in. It is the right size to cut its own thread in the laptop casing. Remember to protect the knurling so you don’t chew it up. Stop screwing it in when it’s about flush and the negative terminal is at the point closest to the front of the laptop – this is essential for clearance.
13. *DIFFERENT FROM L305* Grab the top cover and put it roughly in place, and have a look under it from the front of the laptop. Observe the limited clearance between the end of the jack and the side of the box containing the speaker. This is why we bent the negative terminal outwards.
14. *DIFFERENT FROM L305* Solder the wires as above, but on the L300, you’ll need to solder the positive wire across, at right angles to the pin, so that the wire and solder does not intrude any further into the laptop than the end of the pin. The wire should come off the jack and travel towards the front of the laptop, then curve inwards. This way it will not foul the speaker box. I’m sorry I didn’t take a picture!
15. Re-route the wire – if you don’t feed it under the little hook that it was previously under, there should still be enough length to allow the little ferrite cube to sit in the little chair it was in before.
26. In true Haynes manual fashion, reassembly is the reverse of removal. The touchpad ribbon cable is not fully seated if you can still see the shiny surface of the connector pads on the ribbon. The keyboard cable is, however, seated with a little bit still visible.
27. Plug in and enjoy!
Jonathan
December 30th, 2009 at 10:06 am
Chris,
I’m not sure if your Satellite U400 has enough space for the new generic jack. I guess if the DC jack is broken, you’ll have to buy another original Toshiba jack (Part number A000024450) and replace the damaged one.
You’ll find disassembly guide for Satellite U400/U405 laptops at http://www.Irisvista.com/tech/
January 3rd, 2010 at 6:28 pm
I would like to know why if the base is broken it doesn’t work? I was thinking it was a safty feature but idk
January 3rd, 2010 at 11:40 pm
Mason,
It doesn’t work because when the base is broken the power jack gets pushed inside the case and you cannot plug in the AC adapter.
January 4th, 2010 at 9:45 pm
Hi did everything step by step to the letter T now getting an error message thats says can not connect all drives when I click on the ballon takes me to a device manager which says memory drive cannot connect and it assigned it the drive letter Z …
January 7th, 2010 at 3:37 pm
Just did this on a toshiba for a client of mine. Works like a chap and looks sick!
January 10th, 2010 at 6:15 pm
Worked great! Got the part from Radio Shack. Followed the instructions to the T and my 9-year old is now a happy camper. Thanks! I have to say it looks better as well. Verty sturdy and stylish.
January 11th, 2010 at 2:01 pm
thanks a million worked fine ……..
January 11th, 2010 at 6:11 pm
Well how comes when I slip the charger into the charging port and have it connected and all chordes hucked up it still won’t charge
January 14th, 2010 at 9:30 am
Great work!! Thanks for the excellent repair guide. Definitely made the job easy.
January 17th, 2010 at 3:37 pm
Awesome guide!!! Took me 20minutes tops, the part was in-stock at our local radio shack and also bought the soldering gun and solder there total price like $15 Again THANK YOU!
January 20th, 2010 at 6:22 pm
Hello…..
Great site. But I am working on a Toshiba Satellite P305D-S8828. The power socket is broken and it needs to be replaced.
My husband is insistent that this guide will not work (the one for the L305D is the one listed here). Please help!!!!
Thanks!!!
January 21st, 2010 at 4:19 pm
Gina,
The last picture shows base assembly for a Satellite P305D. I think this base has plenty of space for a new generic jack.
It should work if you do everything correctly.
January 23rd, 2010 at 2:01 am
i did the repair but it will not charge and no lights come on now
January 24th, 2010 at 12:32 am
Well I must say that this site was very helpful. I had never taken my Toshiba Satellite L355D apart before. The power jack was broke off inside the laptop. I had some quotes to have it fix is was going to be close to $200.00 dollars. I did price the factory plug i located one for $50.00 dollars. Then after reading your site i decided to take this on i had nothing to lose. I went to Radio Shack and got the generic connector which was $3.00 dollars like you said. And took my time taking it apart while just following your steps. It took me 2 hours to fix but i didnt hurry at all. Plugged it up works like a champ. So i want to say Thank You for this site it was very helpful.
January 26th, 2010 at 10:50 am
This rocks!!!! Thought I was screwed, until I found this great tutorial.
I did this procedure on a Toshiba A-305, opening just had to b shaved a tiny bit with an exacto knife. Connector fits like a glove and is way more sturdy. $5 for connector and shrink wrap.
Thank you!
January 27th, 2010 at 11:23 am
I used this website also and installed the power jack for a toshiba P305D and that part is working ….. atleast the plug light and battery light are working now, but the laptop will not power on?? Any suggestions….anyone??
Thanks
Shirl
January 30th, 2010 at 7:46 am
Thanks very much for this guide to replacing the power jack on my otherwise-admirable Toshiba Satellite L305.
A question before I begin opening the computer:
I’m reading the (generic) Satellite L355D disassembly instructions, steps 1 through 14. Why is it necessary – or IS it necessary – to remove the modem, wireless card and DVD drive, if one’s goal is to remove the keyboard and top cover for access to the jack?
I may well be misreading your instructions; perhaps it will become apparent why these components should be removed, once I get into it. Thanks for any replies.
February 3rd, 2010 at 7:39 am
This worked like a miracle for my Satellite A135 (S4427). The problem I had before I did the fix was that the jack itself was dead. I was having to wiggle the cord to get it to work, then it died completely. I opened the computer and realized I’d have to get a new jack. I was frustrated until I read this fix.
I didn’t have to shorten the long lead on the jack in the A135. It fit in there with no trouble. I widened the hole by using drill bits of increasing size, and twisting them by hand. The inside plastic support walls I removed with a pair of wire nippers and pliers.
February 5th, 2010 at 6:44 pm
Dude, you rock!
Awesome tutorial, worked fine on the L305. There was a slight bulge in the case from the speaker crowding problem, but it was not really a problem. Total work time about 1 hour.
Thank you!
February 6th, 2010 at 8:00 am
hi. could you use conductive silver paint instead of soldering?
February 7th, 2010 at 4:20 pm
david,
You’ll have to solder.
February 8th, 2010 at 4:38 am
Is the jack in this tutorial that same size as the existing (bad) jack. Will the same ac adapter work with it. As luck would have it, the one that I am fixing is an L305D. If the same adapter will not work, do you know which ac adapter I would need to get. Thanks so much for the help.
February 8th, 2010 at 11:09 pm
Stacey,
Yes, that’s the trick! The generic jack has same size as the existing factory jack. The generic jack works fine with the original factory adapter.
February 15th, 2010 at 7:55 am
I have sat. L305 with this problem, I repaired the power jack with no problem but the machine is dead. I have checked the output of the jack thinking a cold solder joint could be the problem but I have the required 19Vdc coming in and going out of the jack. I checked the battery charge parts for voltage and read the same 19Vdc. There doesn’t seem to be a problem with the jack but the original reason I repaired it remains. No power indication at all; whether or not the power supply is plugged in. Any tips?
February 17th, 2010 at 9:24 am
Great website and I’m looking to do this repair myself but I called Radio Shack (The Source in Canada) and they don’t have the part that you suggested. They want me to call Toshiba directly and I am hoping that I won’t have to do that. Any suggestions where I could source the part somewhere else here in Canada?
February 18th, 2010 at 3:17 pm
Holly,
Is there any way you can order this jack online (maybe from the US site)?
Calling to Toshiba will not help you go find this jack.
February 20th, 2010 at 8:35 pm
I have the same issue and its killing me!!!!!! I’m no good at soldering any chance I could buy a completed unit from you?
February 22nd, 2010 at 4:53 pm
First off, your directions were spot on, thanks for posting them!
Unfortunately… I broke an end off the little white plastic clip that holds the keyboard ribbon to the Motherboard… any idea where i can get a new one or maybe a work around that would do the trick????
Thanks again!
February 22nd, 2010 at 8:52 pm
John,
Try this:
http://www.laptoprepair101.com/laptop/2009/11/17/fix-broken-keyboard-connector-on-laptop-motherboard/
February 23rd, 2010 at 12:31 am
hi! an “electrical” question. The jack you show is metallic, the outer ring would connect to the ground cable. Isn’t that dangerous? I mean, if I accidentally touch the outer ring while in use?
Thanks!
February 23rd, 2010 at 5:13 pm
amz,
You mean touch the ring with your fingers? Nope, it’s not dangerous. It’s same like touching metal casing on your microwave oven.
February 23rd, 2010 at 7:14 pm
Hi,
I asked because the jack’s body is connected to the ground terminal. For example a common 3.5mm audio jack is basically the same, BUT it has a plastic housing around it. On the image above step 1 it clearly shows the body of the jack is directly connected to ground solder point…
February 26th, 2010 at 3:11 am
Just did the repair, took 5 hours, 3 hours spent on soldering the power cable to the RadioShack part. I was about to give up because I had screwed the part in and soldered already.
All in all, easy fix overall since now I know. Thanks for the guide, now I wish I would of asked for more money from her, but she was too cute to ask for $100, so I just asked for $20 for the repair.
February 26th, 2010 at 8:09 pm
okay so i did this mod… after finishing i tried to boot up my laptop to see if the green light would come on but no light omg i was hopeful this would not happen i have no direction at this point… somebody please tell me what the problem could be! and i checked if there was a flow of electricity and it was but still no charge
February 27th, 2010 at 11:49 am
Kam,
Did you solder wires correctly? Did you check polarity?
March 1st, 2010 at 11:01 pm
Hi,
I just finished the repair and when i put my charger in, it charges. But when i hit the power button, the power doesnt stay on and comes on but the screen never comes on. I feel like I didn’t hook something back up correctly. Is this correct? and is there something i can do that will fix this
March 2nd, 2010 at 12:11 pm
Raven,
I cannot tell what is wrong without looking at the laptop.
Check all connections. Make sure memory is seated correctly if you removed it for some reason.
March 3rd, 2010 at 7:59 am
Hi! thank you so much for going to so much trouble posting this site. Hopefully by the end of the day I will have finished this repair on my p305d. I will be donating too and I hope that everyone else does. If they haven’t shame on them! because you’ve saved all of us alot of money!
This will be my first computer repair. I’ve rarely failed at things like this being a pretty successful do-it-yourselfer and I like to be very prepared and make sure I understand everything before i proceed. I have all supplies, even an antistatic wriststrap as well as an antistatic mat to be safe. so my 3 questions are very basic, but i want to know before i proceed:
where do I clip the antistatic mat/and or wristrap? It’s evident on a desktop but I’m not sure on a laptop.
How do I check polarity? (this is my main question….it seems very important…the other questions i can figure out as i go, so if you don’t have time please just answer this one)
Will I have to shorten the jack for the p305d (i noticed some comments where some models didn’t actually require it…if so how do i shorten it?
Thank you again! and it’s tax season so I will definitely be donating!
March 3rd, 2010 at 9:48 am
deanna,
You can attache it to one of the frame screw on the desktop. Somewhere on the back of the desktop.
If you don’t have antistatic mat or wrist strap, it’s not critical. Simply touch the metal desktop frame before touching internal parts in the laptop. It will remove any static from your body.
In my example the red wire is “+” and the black one is “-”.
The red wire should be connected to the connector in the middle of the generic jack. The black cable is connected to the connector on the side.
You can see it on the step 6.
I don’t think you have to shorten it for Satellite P305D. As you can see on the last picture in the guide, it has enough space for the generic jack.
Good luck and proceed at your own risk!
March 4th, 2010 at 3:01 pm
Hey i did this fix on my l300 all charges ok now. The only problem i have is when i plug the ac adaptor the touchpad becomes very irratic. My cursor goes really jumpy it is extremely hard to use. As soon as i take the ac adaptor out the mouse works smoothly again.
I also noticed that if i put my fingers on the silver part of the dc jack thats visible when charging the mouse goes smooth again. so i end up holding that with one hand while trying to use the laptop with the other.
I havent a clue whats causing it. If anyone can help any advice would be greatly appreciated
March 4th, 2010 at 3:06 pm
Aaron McAllister,
I have no idea what’s wrong.
Bad soldering? Grounding issue? Maybe the jack is shoring something.
I cannot tell without looking inside the laptop.
March 4th, 2010 at 4:05 pm
ok so i have just taken the laptop upstairs and plugged it into a socket in my bedroom and it works almost perfectly,
if i move the mouse round quickly in circular motions it only freezes for a fraction of second about once every 10 seconds whereas downstairs i wouldnt even be able to move more than a few mm before it darting off in another direction.
March 4th, 2010 at 4:10 pm
and since ive been upstairs the taskbar has frozen and crashed 3 times. i dont see how that could be linked but my taskbar has never crashed.
apologies for the multiple posts
March 4th, 2010 at 5:50 pm
Hi!
(the plastic doesn’t go all the way flush from the cord into the jack…but it didn’t when i just plugged it on before all the work just to see how it fits) I got the exact jack that you mention. could it somehow be wrong for the p305d or is this okay to have that little space of the post showing? or is it just enough to not make a circuit and power up? so there’s no usual indication that i’ve just plugged in and the battery is now charging. could i have used too much solder? wires were tightly connected to the jack. i worried that maybe i should cover some of the wire and solder with electrical tape, maybe i shouldn’t have? what do you make of this? i wonder if after all this hard work it was just a faulty power cord. i have no indicator lights on that to be sure. i’d love some advice if you have any and sorry for nearly writing a book here LOL hope you can help 
well i survived this entire process. I didn’t know you had a tutorial for taking apart my p305d and i actually found it before i started. soldering is probably the most aggravating part. aside from dropping a screw in the tiny hole in the hard drive housing…argh! thought i was going to have to take it all apart again just to get the screw. anyways, i found that the power jack was not near as broke as yours only loose….slightly. it’s taped down and harnessed very well, so surely it didn’t come loose from the motherboard itself. i kind of wish i’d have super glued the darned thing back and been done with it. long story short, i got the new jack in, all parts back together and working great..tested that out first on battery to make sure i didn’t ruin something else in the process…..crossed my fingers and plugged her in…..and……..nothing
March 5th, 2010 at 11:07 am
Deanna,
I cannot answer all these questions without looking at the laptop.
If the laptop base is not damaged, maybe you should buy a new DC jack harness and install it instead of the broken one?
March 12th, 2010 at 4:19 pm
Hi, I was looking to fix this on my laptop. I went ahead and followed instructions on removing everything and i got everything out according to plan. only problem i have is the dvd drive. on the site you referred the L305 model doesn’t have a little slot to push the drive out. and really don’t have anything (at least where i looked on where to remove it.) I did however put a lil something inside the laptop kind of like wedges to keep the power jack in place (while not interferring with anything else that’s electrical) because my power jack housing was broke, but its nice and firm and so far so good. if you can post a link or somewhere where you can remove the dvd drive in order to fully get to the power jack cord that’s underneath it I would really appreciate it. Thanks in advance.
March 12th, 2010 at 4:36 pm
Worked like a charm on my wife’s L355.. took about 3.5 hours this afternoon… much of that was dremel’ing down the plastic parts. THANK YOU!!
March 15th, 2010 at 1:40 pm
Hi,
Before I start pulling apart my L355D, how far do I have to disassemble it to get to the Input jack? Completely? I will be following your tutorial on how to disassemble an L355D, so what step (of the 20 posted) should I stop at?
March 17th, 2010 at 4:11 am
im in the uk and the online jack i could get closest to the one in this guide has 3 pins – a centre one (for the positive?) a shell one and one that says normally closed switch contact , do i have to put the negative to the shell or the switch one? that’s ill happily donate if you reply
March 19th, 2010 at 1:38 pm
Perf guide works like a charm. On L300 there are only 2 screws on the keyboard and to get to the power jack u dont need to remove RAM or HDD just unscrew all the screws on the bottom ( dont forget there are few under the battery that hold the top cover). On the top part just remove the keyboard bezel unscrew the 2 screws and unplug the keyboard cable and 2 more you will see them if you carefully lift up the top cover a bit. I have got an alternative fixing of the jack if you cant get the metal jack. all you need is a melting gun like this one for example:
http://letsmakerobots.com/files/imagecache/robot_fullpage_header/field_primary_image/24076.jpg
hold the jack close to the hole where it is supposed to fit and put some of the glue stick around wait 5 min then remove tha plastic reinforcement wall of top cover as shown in step 7 and you are rdy to go.
March 19th, 2010 at 9:05 pm
Aaron,
Thanks so much for mentioning your problem. I noticed that my mousepad started having the same problem and didn’t realize it might be related to this fix. I wonder if I just need to ground the metal washer on the inside of the case.
Unplugging the computer or touching the metal on the outside of the case seems to “fix” the problem. I started using a wireless keyboard and mouse to get around the problem and thought there was some kind of driver issue.
Thanks again!
Jeff
PS. InsideMyLaptop.com’s solution for this problem was awesome, paypal payment on it’s way soon.
March 19th, 2010 at 9:09 pm
Marcus,
I also have an L305D, and ended up disconnecting the power cord near the DVD player, pulling it up a little and this gave me the room to work with the wires for soldering. It also made me feel more comfortable about doing the soldering and not worrying about transferring heat thru the wires.
March 23rd, 2010 at 12:35 pm
This was very helpful, thanks a lot. I was able to fix mine easily. Flipping down the jack did the trick.
March 25th, 2010 at 1:17 pm
Marcus, I am currently trying to fix a L305 as well. In order to remove the DVD drive from the laptop, remove the ram cover on the back, there is a single screw holding the DVD player in place remove it and the DVD drive slips out easily.
March 28th, 2010 at 1:21 pm
Thanks for the excellent guide. I was searching for a guide to take apart my L355D for this exact problem. I did not replace the jack (probably will eventually) but instead used a piece from an 1/8″ rubber tile spacer to put between the jack and housing to get it to stay in place. The housing was intact enough to allow this. When this fails me I now know what I need to do a permanent repair. Thanks for the guide, really helps.
March 30th, 2010 at 7:12 pm
I just used these instructions to fix an L505D. There are a few extra sneaky screws and the cover has 3 extra cables to unhook that the 300 series doesn’t. There’s also extra space for the new jack, so I didn’t have to clip the terminals or modify the cover to put it back on.
Thanks for the massive help!
March 31st, 2010 at 10:38 am
Ike,
Thanks for the comment. I haven’t tried this fix on Satellite L505D. I guess it works for Satellite L500/L505 too. Did you use the same power jack from RadioShack?
April 6th, 2010 at 7:43 am
While using your instructions to install the Radio Shack power jack on a Toshiba Satellite L305-S5955 that everything went well with one exception. The speaker that sits next to the power jack required a slight modification by sawing off about a 1/4 inch on the side next to the power jack to permit the top cover to go back together.
I added a small piece of 3 x 5 card glue to the side of this after the speaker modification and colored it black afterwards. It doesnt affect the speaker performance and did afford me enough room to put the machine back together. This was after I had bent the negative pin back and all.
Just an FYI and thanks for the great instructions.
Alan T. Parent
askoleal
April 11th, 2010 at 6:12 pm
Oh thank you sooooo much! I knew immediately that my power jack had pushed too far into my laptop (after tripping over and BREAKING the plug!). I had removed ALL of the screws in the back of the laptop, and didn’t know what to do. I even started searching for new Satellites on Ebay, Amazon, and Toshiba Direct.
Such a blessing that I typed into Google how to take apart your Toshiba Satellite P305 laptop, and your website came up. I used hot glue (no where near the wiring) and electrical tape for a temporary fix, but I will follow your full instructions as soon as school gets out (teacher) and I have time to practice my soldering.
You will definitely be getting a donation from me when I get paid in May!
Thank you again!
April 14th, 2010 at 11:14 am
I have traced the input voltage from the jack to the leads for charging the battery and see that there is 19 Volts DC on all pins except pin 3..probably a ground. Does anyone have knowledge if this voltage is accurate(supposed to be on all pins)? Or perhaps there is a short on the board making the voltage appear across all pins?
Otherwise, if anyone knows a means to have the battery checked and verified, that would be helpful to me. Seems this issue occurred suddenly, and I would have expected the battery to die slowly.
April 18th, 2010 at 10:24 pm
Thank you so much! My power jack got loose before when i first purchased my laptop from fry’s. I had to argue with them for like 5 hours that that need to cover it under my 2 year extended warranty…always they finally fixed and 2 weeks later same problem and fry’s is such a headache i didn’t feel like dealing with them…and everyone wants 150 to fix it and thanks to you i can do it myself! although i never fully fixed it just put it back into place and used a little electrical tap….i know eventually i will have to i just don’t know how to solder right now….. THANK YOU!
April 19th, 2010 at 9:22 pm
Hey great guide!
I think this must be a very common problem. The thing must be made very, very cheaply. I think they did not understand the need for strong reinforcement on a part of the product that would be pressed and pulled many times in everyday use.
I just soldered the replacement and closed the machine up, but it won’t turn on now. It has the orange light on for the battery and the green light on for the DC, so maybe it still needs time to charge…we’ll see. It’s been about 20 minutes. I’m afraid I may have accidentally done something to the motherboard or something, but as I can see from the green and orange lights, the replacement worked the way it was supposed to. Maybe people need to be more careful than I was, but this should do the trick. I think if the motherboard is functional, this modification will extend the laptop’s life greatly as I had no issues with it whatsoever until the jack fell into the unit.
April 20th, 2010 at 6:40 pm
I talked to a guy i met, says he refurbishes laptops and computers and such. for 60$ he would super glue it into place so that it wouldnt move anymore.. would this work? if so i feel like i could do it myself easily. just thought id ask. I’ve had this problem 6 or 7 times with my laptop… frustrating.. so i’m hoping to learn to fix it myself cheaply and quickly. I’ve never worked on a laptop before but i did build my desktop. That is as far as my computer background goes though. Should i just not open it up and pay the 60? or should i go for it?
April 20th, 2010 at 7:15 pm
Ray,
I doubt that superglue will work for plastic parts. Epoxy might work.
May 2nd, 2010 at 8:11 am
I just used these instructions to fix my L355D. Excellent guide! I’ve never soldered before so it took a bit longer than I expected but, really, this guide had every single step along the way. I didn’t run into any surprises! Thank you so much!
May 6th, 2010 at 6:07 pm
I did the step By step and everthing looked fine.
I was happy because I thot this was going to work. I plugged in the charger but nothing happened. no orange charging lights or anything came up.
Can you tell me what happened??
I just brought a whole new DC Jack harness online so I hope that will fix the problem. I’m going to have to gorilla glue it in place since I had to take off the supports when I put the metal connector in there. If it doesn’t them I’m screwed
May 11th, 2010 at 9:20 am
Hi i have a P305D-S8828… i’ve read through all 6 pages of posts from people and only a few have the same model it seems but all were unsuccessful… does anyone with a same model as i gotten theirs to work?
May 11th, 2010 at 10:02 am
Anyhow i went out and bought the parts from radio shack… about to start this fix… i noticed there is a washer on the radio shack part… is this part needed ?
May 11th, 2010 at 12:08 pm
Ok i finally finished it… was pretty easy considering the fact i never soldered before. total time took me about 1.5 hours.. im sure trained individuals can finish way faster. I have P305D-S8828 and i did the method of using an aftermarket radio shack jack. EVERYTHING WORKS PERFECT!!!! There is enough room inside the p305 to fit the jack in no problem no need to cut anything and it clears the speaker assembly. everything powered on charges.. Thanks Laptop Tech for takin time to post this here for all of us. u saved me 2-300 dollars easy.. defintiley worth a donation!!!
May 14th, 2010 at 9:59 am
Fantastic, it works great, it took about two hours to open the lap top and perform de fix. I also added a small drop of super glue on the nut of the new connector so that it wont come lose. Thanks…
May 16th, 2010 at 9:56 am
Jason,
Thank you for your donation!
May 16th, 2010 at 10:00 am
New harness didn’t work either.. U know wut went wrong tech?
I think I’m going to just buy a new laptop and get a Sata Usb enclosure for my hard drive in my toshiba
May 16th, 2010 at 10:10 am
Rodriguez Beast,
Did you replace the jack because it was broken?
If you installed a new harness but there are no lights when you plug the AC adapter, it could be one of the following:
1. Bad AC adapter.
2. Bad harness.
3. Bad motherboard.
I cannot tell which one is causing the problem without testing parts.
May 16th, 2010 at 4:33 pm
“If you installed a new harness but there are no lights when you plug the AC adapter, it could be one of the following:
1. Bad AC adapter.
2. Bad harness.
3. Bad motherboard.”
I tested my ac and it gives power. Matter of fact the whole motherboard gets power but still no power lights.
My guess is that it’s the motherboard?
May 16th, 2010 at 4:47 pm
Rodriguez,
If the motherboard gets power but has no signs of life, probably it’s the motherboard failure.
May 16th, 2010 at 5:01 pm
Fantastic fix. Took me about 2 hours but I watched TV and haven’t done much sautering. Well worth a small donation. fyi Satallite L305.
Thanks!
(p.s. my brother had the same problem a few years ago and got rid of his laptop… too bad he didn’t find your directions…)
May 16th, 2010 at 5:15 pm
Alan P,
I’m glad that my guide help people. Thank you for your donation.
May 17th, 2010 at 11:44 am
Thanks for the guide. My computer’s power jack broke last week and I was worried I would have to pay a lot of money for the fix. Now it looks like I will be able to do it for around $10, simply because I don’t know where my wire pliers are and I am going to have to buy new ones. Otherwise I have everything that your guide shows me needing. Thanks a lot. I would donate but I don’t have a credit card.
May 17th, 2010 at 7:30 pm
Thanks for the fix. It worked perfectly. Only somehow I managed to mess my trackpad up in the process. Any ideas on how to fix that? I think i know what it is. My computer isn’t detecting my trackpad and I downloaded Toshiba’s driver software for it and its still not working. I would love to have my trackpad back because I play my laptop when I am laying in bed and it is very annoying to try to use my wireless mouse for it.
May 17th, 2010 at 7:58 pm
Travis,
1. Make sure the touchpad (trackpad) cable is properly connected to the motherboard.
2. Try enabling the touchpad with Fn+F9 kesy. Hold down the Fn key and at the same time press once on the F9 key.
May 18th, 2010 at 3:08 am
The wire is connected properly because the power lights are connect with the same wire, and it is enabled because that was the first thing that I tried.
May 18th, 2010 at 4:53 pm
My bracket broke a bit differently. I disassembled my laptop as described and just used some “J-B KWIK” epoxy from J-B Weld and glued the socket back onto the casing where it was supposed to be. Held just dandy… This web page is excellent help! Except, when I viewed the diassembly webpage, the “red arrows” were not shown on the pictures. And then a description of how to remove the flex connectors would also have been helpful…
May 19th, 2010 at 6:23 am
Does this sound like a damaged power jack issue before I attempt to do this. When I plug the ac adaptor into the wall and my laptop the charging and ac connected light do not come on and when I go into windows it does not show that it is connected or charging either.
I have tested the ac adaptor with a volt meter and it still works. The ac adaptor is a third party adaptor.
May 19th, 2010 at 3:49 pm
OK, so I get lights when I plug it in. It charges the battery. When I press the power button, it powers on. I can hear the fan running. There’s no light for acessing the hard drive and it doesn’t appear to be trying.
Is the motherboard just fried or what…? A new motherboard would be somewhere between $200 and $400, right? Service techs at the local electronics stores were pretty much telling me to buy a new computer from the second the jack fell off the mounts (yeah, guys, I love buying an entirely new laptop every year as soon as the warranty dies) so I don’t think I can find much “real” professional help….
May 20th, 2010 at 11:12 am
I really like to do this but I am afraid to make it worse. My jack broke yesterday and Geek Squad told me that I need a whole new mother board. Do you live in Michigan? lol
May 21st, 2010 at 3:22 am
Hey,
ty for tips!
just bought all the stuff and about to start work on P300, and also A200 toshiba laptops,
I will update after I’ve finished
May 21st, 2010 at 5:30 am
Ok,
so I just put in the new jack into my P300-16T,
sadly my adapter was slightly too long, but with my recently acquired soldering iron I was able to mend my old one and now all is working fine
hopefully this should be good enough to persuade my mum to let me fix her A200
Thanks for all the help!
Luke
May 21st, 2010 at 7:31 am
ann marie,
What Toshiba model you have? If it’s Satellite L305/L355, you don’t need a new motherboard. The jack is located on a harness which can be replaced separately.
May 21st, 2010 at 7:55 am
Patrick,
Could be memory failure. Try removing memory modules one by one. Test the laptop with only one modules installed, try different slots. It’s very unlikely that both modules failed at the same time. If one of the memory modules is bad, the laptop should start properly when it’s removed.
Also, try minimizing the system. Remove the hard drive, DVD drive and turn it on again. Can you get video this way?
If testing with different memory modules and removing parts doesn’t help, most likely this is motherboard failure.
Just in case, test the laptop with an external monitor attached to the VGA port. Can you get video on the external screen?
May 22nd, 2010 at 10:31 am
Works GREAT!!! Followed these steps for a Toshiba Satellite L305D. thank you!!
May 23rd, 2010 at 7:41 am
Hi again,
now my adapter has almost gone and will cost me £25 to replace!
my other adapter does not work even though it fits and both worked with old fitting
anyone got any thoughts on this:
working part no. PA3486E-1AC3
non-working part no. PA3467U-1ACA,
also my mum has a different adapter which also doesn’t work, although again being the same size.
I know the adapter I am using now is on its last legs and I want to sort this fast
thanks for help!
May 23rd, 2010 at 11:28 am
Luke,
Not sure what is your question?
May 23rd, 2010 at 11:57 pm
Heya, I must say, first off, that this is a great guide! It helped me out so much when I needed to rplace my power unit in my Toshiba Sattelite L305D-5895
I was easily able to fix that no problem, getting a new adapter and soldering the wires properly to it, but ever since then, every time I go to power up the laptop, it shows power, runs the fan on the CPU, and it reads the DVD drive a moment, but the screen stays completely blank and the laptop shuts itself down after about three to five seconds, so it doesn’t even seem like it’s getting past the POST.
I have looked at the Inverter in the back and the cable connecting the motherboard to the LCD screen, all connections are secure and seated properly.
I’m wondering what could be stopping the laptop from doing its POST. I’ve tried booting it with practically everything out of it (battery, hard drive, RAM, DVD drive) and everything inside, but no matter what I try, it does the same thing.
Would love any and all help on this! Thanks a ton! ^_^
May 24th, 2010 at 9:30 am
Ok,
old matter resolved.
just finished work on A200,
again works fine
thanks very much
May 27th, 2010 at 7:43 pm
Very interesting web page. Do you know the exact name of the replacement part (jack) that you used? We have no Radio Shack close by so I’ll need to find a part online or somewhere else.
May 28th, 2010 at 7:19 am
Garth Holman,
I guess you can buy it from Radio Shack online. The jack model number is 274-1576. Search their site for this number.
June 1st, 2010 at 12:58 am
On step 9 on how to remove top cover assembly, the wire with the black plastic hook to them. How do you plug them back in? I try but I dont want to force it and break it. here the link to the page
http://www.irisvista.com/tech/laptops/Toshiba-Satellite-L355D/laptop-disassembly-2.htm
June 5th, 2010 at 3:52 am
I have a Satellite L505D S5965 – one month away from one year warranty. Mine is broken just as yours. Toshiba advised that this is not on their defective list, and it will not be covered under the one year warranty period. I cannot pay hundreds of dollars to fix this laptop. I am deeply upset that they will not stand behind their product!
My question is, will this model work the same as the instructions listed above?
Thank you, very much!
Vicki
June 5th, 2010 at 7:18 pm
Worked Great for me on L350D. Thank You
June 6th, 2010 at 7:16 pm
Vicky Roges,
I believe you can use this guide to fix your Satellite L505D.
This model uses same 19V adapter, so the jack should fit.
There is enough space inside the laptop case to install a new jack.
Here are laptop disassembly instructions:
http://www.irisvista.com/tech/laptops/Toshiba-Satellite-L505-L505D/remove-laptop-motherboard-1.htm
Proceed at your own risk and good luck!
June 7th, 2010 at 1:10 pm
Great info! Model L355D. I had this happen once under the 1 year warranty and they repaired it no questions asked by requesting the shipping box and sending it in. It was loose again recently and I wanted to be pro-active this time and fix it once and for all and the guide worked flawlessly. I haven’t soldered anything in about 20 years and even then it was 1 time to make a circuit board for shop class and was able to do this no problem. Only mistake I almost made was to use a drill bit slightly bigger than I should have chosen to drill the hole larger to fit the metal replacement jack. It was almost too big and the metal piece almost could have slid through there, but turned out fine and it’s nice and snug with no issues. Donation sent, thanks!
June 7th, 2010 at 6:55 pm
Chris,
Thank you for the donation!
June 11th, 2010 at 4:17 am
Worked perfectly. As mentioned, the AC adapter fits pretty snugly in the jack. There’s not a whole lot of plastic to hold the jack into place, so be careful not to apply too much pressure when inserting the adapter. I recommend a twisting motion when inserting the adapter, which will help it slide in without too much inward pressure.
June 11th, 2010 at 4:29 am
Eric wrote:
On step 9 on how to remove top cover assembly, the wire with the black plastic hook to them. How do you plug them back in? I try but I dont want to force it and break it. here the link to the page.
Eric, I believe you mean the ribbon cables. That cable and the keyboard ribbon cable jacks have a little plastic piece on the front of them that slides out. Use a small, thin flat-head screwdriver to pull the piece out from each side of the jack, a little on each side until it’s out as far as it will go. Once it’s out all the way, the ribbon will slide back in place easily. Once the ribbon is in, use the screwdriver to push the plastic piece back in to lock the ribbon in place. Good luck!
June 11th, 2010 at 9:59 am
Hi,
i have the L305D-S5897 toshiba laptop and my dc jack got broken and my ac adaptor went out also.I repair it carefully as you said but my system don’t want to power up.
Is it possible my harness section is bad also? Thanks for your help.
June 12th, 2010 at 8:56 am
I see how you did all the work. I have a L305 as well. Only question I have is how do you remove the DVD drive so you can perform the activities mentioned by this post? I can’t find anything regarding the disassembly of this model relating to the DVD drive.
June 12th, 2010 at 9:13 am
Paul,
I linked to the disassembly site at the beginning of the guide.
It’s not enough to remove the DVD drive, you’ll have to remove the top cover assembly.
Here’s a link to the disassembly guide for your model: http://www.irisvista.com/tech/laptops/Toshiba-Satellite-L305-L305D/remove-screen-replace-video-cable-1.htm
June 12th, 2010 at 2:41 pm
Phillin,
I cannot tell without looking at the laptop but you can plug the AC adapter and using a multimeter test voltage on the terminals where the DC jack harness connected to the motherboard.
If the motherboard gets power but will not turn on, it’s possible the motherboard is bad.
June 13th, 2010 at 3:31 pm
I did this repair and all was well until I plugged it in. No power. My model is the L305. I will test the connection as you reccomended before and try to find the problem. My question is this: What is that little metal/plastic piece that the power wires are wrapped around and through? Is it important? Mine is broken. Thanks for the assistance and the instrucitons.
June 13th, 2010 at 9:43 pm
Hi well i have the dc jack problem but im using this guid to take the top cover off. Problem is i cant even get the top cover off ive tried guitar pics to knives please hel pim going on a trip tomarrow and I really need my laptop fixed by tonight
June 14th, 2010 at 5:40 am
Laptop Tech:
I did take apart the top cover assembly. However, that disassembly guide only shows up to the top cover removal. It then proceeds to disassemble the LCD screen. In the L305, the cable for the power jack runs underneath the DVD drive. I can’t see any visible way to remove it. Can you please enlighten me?
Thanks.
June 14th, 2010 at 5:14 pm
regarding post 184:
Patrick,
I get lights when I plug it in. It charges the battery. When I press the power button, it powers on. I can hear the fan running. There’s no light for acessing the hard drive and it doesn’t appear to be trying.
Could be memory failure…
I’m not qualified to give pc repair advice but I have had two different toshi’s not detect ram until I wiggled it a few times. I’ve taken out and put ram in dozens of desktop and laptops without a problem but both toshi’s I’ve had have had fussy ram jacks. First time I actually took it back after pulling it and putting it back in a few times. Once it finally got in it never gave me any more trouble. They were both satellites. I think they acted the same as yours when they new ram was in but not detected though. It threw me cause I thought when you have no ram it will tell you “memory failure” or something. But the screen was blank with the fan on and little or no hdd activity like you say.
June 15th, 2010 at 2:38 pm
Paul,
The screw for removing the DVD drive on my L305 was under the RAM cover. I didn’t see it at first, my daughter did. It is just to left of the opening.
Laptop Tech,
Good job with the instructions. All of issues are resolved or answered. The piece I mentioned below is called a ferrite choke apparently, anyway thanks for the page.
June 19th, 2010 at 5:48 pm
Great job. I had the same problem on an L505D Satellite. I did not replace the jack but instead glued it to the wall with superglue (cyanoacrylate). I hope it will hold in place, at this moment it has endured for 2 months. I suggest to take into account that the soldering of a new jack should be isolated thoroughly. I heard of a guy who had a little ball of tin wandering inside the notebook due to a non isolated wire welding that ended in a costly motherboard replacement. I reminded of that looking at the original jack wires (isolated with some type of silicone).
Thank you very much
June 24th, 2010 at 12:09 pm
OK – I bought all the parts, but am still deciding how I want to proceed. The jack itself is perfectly fine. However, the bracket that is attached to the base (dumb idea of Toshiba’s!) is broken at the bottom and on one side, but the entire bracket itself is still in tact. I am also picking up the smallest L-bracket I can find and see if that would work rather than do a modification. I had one heck of a time getting the laptop apart in order to get to this part. I purchased the entire guide for repairing a Toshiba laptop. If you would like to put it on your site, I can upload it to you – just let me know and I will do so. There are almost 50 screws that are required to take the thing apart just to get the top off! Also, the guide describes how to remove connectors properly so that nothing gets broken. Your instructions are vague at best – so I figured this guide may help with your following.
I will update after I finished either super-glueing the L-bracket and existing bracket together or whether I do your modification.
June 24th, 2010 at 5:20 pm
Thank you soo much this worked perfectly. I was a little scared at first because like Patrick my screen would not show so plugged in my memory modules and it worked!!! Thank you for saving my laptop and making it look good too.
June 24th, 2010 at 11:40 pm
Angela Monroe,
I would suggest using epoxy instead of superglue.
June 25th, 2010 at 8:29 am
Mortfan,
Thanks for the heads up on the screw under the ram cover. Worked like a charm! Thanks again for this great site!
June 25th, 2010 at 5:56 pm
Thanks, You saved my laptop. L355d-s7901. i epoxyed the old one back in place. If not for your guide i would never have tried All the computers your saving is costing the Toshiba people a bunch of money. Keep up the good work! Eddie.
June 25th, 2010 at 7:10 pm
Well, after I purchased the Toshiba guide for tearing down the computer, I ended up doing the repair with your modification. It took me forever to get everything soldered, as I have not had to solder for a very long time. After all was said and done – the repair as you wrote it works great! Besides being a modification, I feel that this repair is actually an upgrade over what was actually there as made by the manufacturer. I do not understand why Toshiba makes such a great laptop, yet has a flimsy piece that holds the jack in place. Thank you so much. Now my nephew won’t have to buy the bottom part of the case. The only thing left to do is to replace one of the bad hard drives and he’s totally back in business. I’ve chosen a different drive than he has now. I think he’ll be very happy to have it back once all is finished – with the upgraded drive that I’m going to be dropping in.
June 26th, 2010 at 8:22 pm
This worked well for the inside the laptop part — downside? The jerry-rigged fix I was using until I could get the permanent fix done bent and damaged the female coaxial connector on the AC-Adapter. Sooooo now I get to find the correct piece and have my ‘big brother’ solder THAT to the power adapter. *bangs head on desk*
June 28th, 2010 at 1:04 pm
Angela Monroe,
June 29th, 2010 at 8:59 am
Hello!
Im an 15 year old owner of a Toshiba L300 labtop, which also got this problem after nearly 2 perfect-working years.
I still got a month or something of my waranty, do you think it will cover it? It´s just getting worse at the moment.
If not im ready, to try to fix it myself! But im a little unsecure how you open it, so i will be able to make the repair.
Could you help me, mate?
July 3rd, 2010 at 9:34 am
Excellent!
I just did this with a friend’s Toshiba Satellite L350-170, and it looks like a complete success!
The part I used was a RadioShack Panel-mount Coaxial Power Jack Size N, looks a little different to the one you used (this one http://pan5.fotovista.com/dev/5/6/00563565/l_00563565.jpg ) but works possibly even better- I didn’t have to cut the hole any larger and there was sufficient space to thread the nut on nice n tight with a washer.
Thank you for your guide
July 5th, 2010 at 8:21 pm
Thank you. Absolutely perfect jack. It’s rock sold. Best to you.
July 6th, 2010 at 10:02 pm
how would i do this for a toshiba satellite p205d-s7454 thanks
July 10th, 2010 at 11:04 pm
latoya,
Take a look at this disassembly guide for Toshiba Satellite P205: http://www.irisvista.com/tech/laptops/toshiba-satellite-p205/removing-motherboard-1.htm
July 13th, 2010 at 11:16 pm
Hi, my laptop has been out of warranty for a year and I have the same problem. I’m not very good at computers and so I contacted a repair center and they wanted to charge me $100 for the fix. I can’t afford to spend $100, but I’m too afraid to try fixing this myself.
Will leaving the dc jack as is (pushed in) affect my laptop? I have not had any problems other than the jack being off center and pushed in.
July 18th, 2010 at 1:14 pm
I have a Toshiba Satellite L355D. Mine is almost a year old. I bought it at Best Buy;it was one of the closeout models they were not carrying anymore. Today a friend who knows how to fix this type of problem, opened it up and sure enough the plastic square jack piece had broken/melted in two places just like in this guide. He had never replaced a jack with a different part but we got the piece installed and everything works great. Great job on the guide; it has saved from the overpriced work that many places charge.
July 23rd, 2010 at 9:51 am
I am having trouble removing the top cover assembly any tips, by the way which disassembly guide should i use there r so many people say you can use i have a Satellite L305
July 23rd, 2010 at 10:20 am
Delip,
All instructions are posted at http://www.irisvista.com/tech/
Here’s the link to Satellite L300/L305 disassembly: http://www.irisvista.com/tech/laptops/Toshiba-Satellite-L305-L305D/remove-screen-replace-video-cable-1.htm
July 24th, 2010 at 9:01 am
This worked for my Toshiba A-505D.
August 3rd, 2010 at 8:01 pm
Dude, thank you so much for this idea! I can’t believe so many people are having this problem. Cheap plastic parts!
August 5th, 2010 at 5:54 am
Great mod
the only thing is that i can’t find the in the UK…..i have the same power jack in size M….Do you know where i can get a size N in UK or will the size M fit ? can someone please help me on this 
Thnx for a great mod
August 10th, 2010 at 10:15 pm
i just have one question my soldering experience is very limited any advice you can give me ? and also the advice you gave no.226 to delip about the 305 model what step do you stop on ?
August 11th, 2010 at 8:38 pm
OK i need your help please, when i got done soldering the two wires i plugged the power plug to the power jack and there was a spark in the area were the the i solder the middle wire, i thought it was common so i went and put my lap top back together but now when i press the power button the screen doesn’t come on, i can see the light indicator for the power and the disk drive open but the screen stays black. did i do something wrong? is my computer completely f*ed? please help!
August 13th, 2010 at 1:31 am
Wanted to say a big thank you to the author, you saved me so much money. This was a great modification, and works beautifully with my l305. Everything I did was my first time and was very easy. The only thing which I highly recommend is that I watched a couple YouTube videos on how to solder. But Just have patience, don’t rush, and think twice before each step to get it right. thanks again
August 13th, 2010 at 3:56 pm
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!! I had a friend do all the soldering for me and it works perfectly!
August 14th, 2010 at 10:07 am
nasim,
You are welcome! Satellite L305 is a very easy model to take apart. If you are careful, there shouldn’t be any surprises.
August 14th, 2010 at 10:36 am
juan martinez,
Any sparking is not normal.
The laptop still gets power, that’s good.
1. Did you remove memory modules? Make sure both memory modules seated correctly. Try reconnecting them.
2. Test your laptop with an external monitor. Can you get video on the external monitor? If yes, check connection between the video cable and motherboard. It’s possible the video cable is not seated correctly.
August 15th, 2010 at 6:53 pm
Thanks for the information.. Very well done.. One thing that I might add is how to release the ribbon cables for the Keyboard, the Touch pad so that people aren’t just yanking them out. This worked great for me although frustrating because I also had a bad power adapter, so when I went to test my work nothing powered up.. I voltage metered it and found the culprit. Thanks again for the great tutorial.
Kenn
Fuquay Varina, NC
August 28th, 2010 at 12:33 pm
Thanks for this great how to website. I did the repair in a few hours. My screen would not come on, so I read the other postings and re-inserted the memory modules and it worked! Thanks.
August 29th, 2010 at 11:11 am
luke,
This is a very common mistake during laptop re-assembly.
If your laptop has no video after re-assembly, always check RAM modules first.
September 3rd, 2010 at 11:37 am
Does anyone know how easy it is to do on the Satelite L300 – 18E model?
I’m going to attempt this tomight hopefully.
Cheers.
September 3rd, 2010 at 11:41 am
Tej,
Satellite L300 should be similar to Satellite L305.
How difficult it is? Read the guide.
September 6th, 2010 at 5:50 am
Really neat !!!
I had the same problem with my power connector. I took it apart today and I fixed it by simply putting a piece of styrofoam between the top cover and the loose original power connector. I ensured that power connector has no room to move and stays in place snuggly and tightly…seems to be working great for me.
September 6th, 2010 at 8:13 am
RD,
If you fixing it for yourself, this method is fine.
It’s a different story if you doing this repair for a customer.
September 6th, 2010 at 11:38 am
where can i buy the power jack?please tell me:S:S:S:S:S
September 6th, 2010 at 9:46 pm
THIS IS AN ISSUE ALERT. BASICALLY A RECALL. Toshiba will fix free of charge contact them.
September 9th, 2010 at 7:31 am
I really want to fix this myself, but I have no idea about sauder and wiring and what not…can’t i just kinda tape it back to the side of the laptop with electrical tape? Woulnd’t that work?
September 9th, 2010 at 2:01 pm
I have a Toshiba Satellite Model: A215-S4767
I was able to use the same Radio Shack Coaxial Power Jack shown on this webpage: Panel-Mount: Size N
I was able to mostly leave the laptop case’s plastic supports and reinforcement walls in place, but I did have to drill a slightly larger hole for the jack. Leaving a lot of the plastic in place helped stabilize the jack and keep it from moving around. This fix has worked great. Thanks!
September 10th, 2010 at 1:36 pm
Thanks very much for your time in publishing this great article.
I purchased the jack from Radio Shack for $2.99 plus tax and the repair took me about 2 hours from start to fininsh.
I have never taken a laptop apart before and the photos and instuctions were spot on perfect.
I have worked on a ton of desktops and soldered before as well.
Anyway, I am very pleased with this kind of support.
Thanks Again
September 10th, 2010 at 8:54 pm
Megan,
Most likely taping it back to the laptop case will not work.
But… what exactly is broken? Base or jack?
If the jack still soldered properly, you can remove the top cover and place something behind the jack to make is stay in place. I hope you understand what I’m talking about.
September 10th, 2010 at 9:06 pm
Christine,
I’m glad that my guide worked for you.
I really enjoy when I can help people!
September 11th, 2010 at 11:46 am
Good job really this repair guide. I just at this time repaired my daughter ‘s L350. All your advices were fine and i hope it’s the last time i disassembly this damned laptop (it was the 4th time with 3 time for making a pseudo repair with glue and tape !!).
For french people, i bought the power jack on http://www.conrad.fr (less 3 euros), but i took the 2.1 mm I.D instead of the 2.5 mm. The power connector is held more firmly in the power jack.
Still a lot of thanks. I’m reallly grateful for this help.
September 13th, 2010 at 7:05 pm
Thanks for the awesome article! Man am I ever my wife’s hero! I owe it to your perect step by step directions and photos. Truly, thanks for putting this out here for others to use! Good on ya, mate!
September 13th, 2010 at 10:35 pm
First off, thank you for the guide. I have bought the same dc jack from radio shack 3 times. I’ve never soldered before now & felt as if I damaged the jacks by burning them with the soldering iron while soldering the wires to the leads. However, I have seen the same results with all of the dc jacks. I would get power to the laptop but when the laptop was shifted, It would lose power until on a flat surface. I would check the connection and it would be solid with neither of the leads touching. Is it my soldering that’s the problem? I have both of the leads soldered & the black wires soldered together together & to the outside lead & red wires soldered together & to the center lead. At the moment I’m not getting any indicator lights on with all wires connected. Please help. It’s been 3 long days. Thank You. Laptop is Toshiba A505-S6973
September 14th, 2010 at 7:32 am
SwagOnGeek,
If you have the same results with three different jack, most likely this is motherboard failure, not the jack problem.
Apparenly, the motherboard has bad solder joints somewhere and when you move the laptop, you basically flexing the motherboard causing the failure.
September 14th, 2010 at 10:59 am
Do you think it could be the power cord? The power light comes on & off as I rotate the cord inside the jack… I’ve ordered a replacement cord and will test it tomorrow
September 15th, 2010 at 8:03 am
I bought a $10 replacement cord on Amazon plugged it in today and I’m holding a good steady connection on my laptop. However, throughout this process, I messed up the touch pad ribbon. Using a usb mouse but would like to know where I can find the ribbon for that & also the ribbon for the touch controls(volume, mute, etc) atop my computer . Please help
September 15th, 2010 at 7:20 pm
Used these instructions to fix a L505D. It worked great.
Also, here is the guide I used to disassemble the laptop.
http://www.irisvista.com/tech/laptops/Toshiba-Satellite-L505-L505D/remove-laptop-motherboard-1.htm
Thanks for the guide Laptop Tech…
September 16th, 2010 at 1:53 pm
SwagOnGeek,
Is your laptop a US model?
If you give me the laptop model number, I can try to find part numbers for your cables.
September 16th, 2010 at 3:34 pm
A505-S6973
September 16th, 2010 at 5:40 pm
SwagOnGeek,
Here are part numbers:
V000939430 – this cable connects the touchpad board with motherboard.
V000939440 – this cable connectes the touchpad board with touchpad.
The touchpad board is a board where left and right click buttons located.
Not sure which one you damaged.
Not sure about this one.
Google the part number and you’ll find it.
September 17th, 2010 at 6:07 pm
Thank you for all of your help. Unfortunately, all of the websites with that part # don’t have it in stock. Including, Toshiba. I have ordered a similar cable for a different model Toshiba. Part # P000459710. Hopefully, this cable will work. I was able to get my hands on similar ffc cables from a local computer repair store but when I attached them & turned the power on. The touch pad lights dint come on & when I looked @ the cables, they had split along the edge. These were 12 pin, I believe. Most luck I’ve had was a 6 pin. The lights would come on momentarily but then go off & the touch pad never functioned. Again, thank you for your help & I’ll keep you posted. Hopefully, this will help others.
September 18th, 2010 at 7:32 pm
Thanks so much for help. The pics and instructions were dead on. Awesome job. My wife thanks that I’m the bomb of computer repair now. Truth be told, this is the first computer repair that I have ever done. I couldn’t have done it without this article. THANKS MUCH!!
September 19th, 2010 at 4:05 pm
hello i have toshiba L305D-S5900.i have same problem its not chrging /i bought a new dc ajck and countec with laptop not like u show ing up.i buy the whole dc jack wire.but its only give me few sec green light and than nothing.any advise thnkas
September 19th, 2010 at 7:17 pm
A quick question and hopefully an easy on the budget answer. I have a Toshiba A305-S6905 Unit, and have the following problem. It does not hold charge anymore. I’ve googled and found your site very knowledgeable but i dont think i can find my answer. I’ve dismantled the top of the laptop, and checked the jack to make sure everything is fine…it is..so what else could it be? The Battery pack itself or the power brick? Also the laptop doesn’t turn on anymore so no post codes that i can tell you that would be of more use. Thank you greatly! CplPeoples
September 20th, 2010 at 11:17 am
Just fixed the jack in my p305-s8814, worked great…. except the jack wasn’t my problem, it was the power cord. *shrug* After replacing that, the power jack worked wonderfully! i guess i killed two birds with one stone.
September 22nd, 2010 at 6:54 pm
Did this on my wife’s comp tonight. L355D. Worked great.
A few tips:
1) To enlarge the hole I wrapped a pencil with 100 grit sand paper and rasped it out. This gives you a very smooth finished hole, not that anyone will see it of course. Be sure to blow the dust out of the computer.
2) I also used liquid tape to cover the solder joints and terminals on the new fitting. It’s much easier that trying to wrap tape in such a small confined space. It’s available int he electrical section of almost any hardware store.
3) I used some sand paper to rough up the terminals prior to soldering. It helps with adhesion of the solder.
4) It’s easier to unplug the wire harness and push the wires to be soldered through the hole in the computer and solder outside the computer. It gives you a little more room to maneuver. Just make sure that the lock washer and nut are slipped over the wires on the inside of the chassis first otherwise you’ll have to de-solder and start again.
5) If you notice the new fitting loosening at all unplug the comp, open it back up and tighten the nut INSIDE immediately. DO NOT tighten it by spinning the fitting on the outside. The wires will break and may short out causing damage (such as a cooked mother board).
This is a great fix that can be done with next to no tech skills. If you’ve never soldered before yo may want to practice on some spare pieces of wire prior to working on the actual computer.
September 25th, 2010 at 6:43 pm
i change the new dc jack i buy it from R shake.and i soldring it after soldrign my computer did not work .its not charging and also no power up
September 25th, 2010 at 8:29 pm
Nike,
Try the following…
if you have access to a multimeter I would recommend checking your power supply to make sure it’s functional. If the power supply works take the computer apart again. Disconnect the power harness from the mother board. plug the power supply in and use the multimeter to test at the terminal that plugs into the mother board. It may be that you have a short at the new connector. Also double check to make sure that you have soldered the red (or green depending on the model) wire to the center post of the new connector. The black wire goes to the outside post. This is super important as reversing the polarity can have the painful effect of cooking your motherboard.
If the power harness checks out okay, I am sorry to say that there is a decent possibility that you have a bad mother board.
As a quick side note. Many people like to use those cold heat soldering irons. They are great for soldering simple wire connections etc., but should never be used on items with sensitive components as they work by created an electrical arc from one half of the tip to the other and can easily fry sensitive components. If you use one for this project make sure that the wire harness is not plugged into the motherboard.
September 27th, 2010 at 9:10 am
Just called Toshiba, and yes they are covering this repair for free. HOWEVER, you must ship it off to them for 7-10 days for the repair to be done. Since my laptop is outside of the warranty anyway, I will opt for a $3 – 2 hour fix!
Wish me luck.
September 27th, 2010 at 11:21 am
Ed,
Good to know that Toshiba still fixing this problem at no charge even on out-of-warranty units.
Most likely some people can afford to wait for 7-10 days to get it fixed at no charge.
Good luck Ed! Hopefully this fix works well for you.
September 28th, 2010 at 12:18 pm
Hello, LaptopTech, and thank you for the fantastic guide,
I performed the replacement on a Toshiba L355D just as you specified, but when I plug the charger into the charging port, it crackles and smokes. I’ve made sure to connect the green wire (aka, the red wire) to the center and the black wire to the outer tab. Thing is, I was a noob at soldering when I first did this until I looked up how to actually solder correctly. I also wrapped each lead in electrical tape to isolate them. Is it possible that I’ve damaged/burned out the replacement charging port, and can I simply buy a new one and do it right?
Really stressed! Thanks for your help!
-KM
September 28th, 2010 at 4:43 pm
Hello again, Laptop Tech!
I had made a pretty serious blunder! I accidentally picked a Size M jack out of the Size N jack box! They look virtually identical, so it’s hard to tell! Installed the Size N, and it fits like a glove! Amazing how much of a difference 0.4 mm can make! Thanks for the great guide!
-KM
September 28th, 2010 at 8:24 pm
KM,
If someone not sure which jack to choose, take your adapter to the store and try it in there. Make sure the adapter plug fits tightly into the jack.
October 1st, 2010 at 4:34 am
I followed your tutorial and I was able to disassemble my laptop successfully.
Unfortunate I was not able to get the Power Jack, so I used JB Weld to permanently glue the old connector together to the holder there.
Thanks alot.
October 1st, 2010 at 8:12 am
Mabel,
If it works, it works!
October 1st, 2010 at 3:20 pm
Hi, thanks for your instructions above, I repaired my girlfriends sons laptop and used a hand held countersink to make the hole in the side slightly larger as required. This allowed me to screw the DC jack into the case itself and also secure it from the inside with the supplied nut. All is now going well, thanks again.
HD
October 2nd, 2010 at 6:09 pm
I wanted to say, I have read this through a couple of times and after having superglued or goop adhesive repairing two L350-S1001V (Toshiba Satellite’s) a couple of different times, I decided to give this a try. Backstory is this happened for the first time to my wife’s laptop about a year or so ago….it was still under warranty so I took it in to the local Toshiba certified shop and they replaced the jack and the bottom shell. This held for a couple of months then it broke again so I did the superglue fix…..somehow she pushed it in again so I used the goop. After this the jack finally broke on mine (we have identical models) so I did the superglue fix on mine…it lasted for a couple of months and then I came home from work one night and found I could not plug in my charger. So i decided to bite the bullet and put the metal jack in. Instead of using a pocket knife to clean up the jack location, I used my handy dandy dremel tool checking frequently to make sure I did not take too much material out and that the new jack would fit securely. In the L350′s I did not have to later the length of the longer connection on the jack. I soldered it all up and used heat shrink tubing over the solder joints instead of electricians tape. I figured it would be better in the long run and if I ever had to do this again I would not have to deal with sticky wires.
Once I finished putting mine back together and making sure it worked correctly the wife promptly asked me to do hers….luckily I bought 2 of the jacks at our local Radio Shack. 2 do both laptops probably took me 45 minutes in all, and I know both of them are fixed permanently now…..of course we have brand new P505-S8025′s on the way to us….one of the L350′s will be handed down to our daughter and the other will be sold to recoup some of the money on the new laptops.
Thanks again for a great tutorial. It was a HUGE help to me today.
October 3rd, 2010 at 9:53 am
Firts of all thank you very much for this great solution because this jack will never cave in. I like to repair things one time. Last night I relocated the voltage regulator away from the exhaust pipe on my motorcycle so that it will never overheat again. This morning I got on the web (google) and found your site, went to RShack & got the part and installed it in no time. The instructions were great. My laptop is a Toshiba Satellite L355D-S7825.
October 5th, 2010 at 7:05 pm
Cheers and salud to you! This works awesome!! I installed it on my L355D. Plenty of room to fit it. I just had to snip out the broken bracket from the inside and I used my dremmel to widen the hole. I didn’t have to alter the top case. Looks nice and it is really sturdy. Only if they would use a proper part to start with.
Thanks again!!
October 9th, 2010 at 6:12 pm
did all the steps, step by step to a t. i couldnt get it to charge. not sure what i did wrong. i did it exactly as listed here. i have the red in the center black on the outside. soldereed them together…didnt break anything. this sucks!!!
October 9th, 2010 at 6:21 pm
pete,
Maybe you had a different problem with your laptop.
Maybe it wasn’t just a bad/damaged jack. Did it charge before?
October 11th, 2010 at 12:09 pm
Hi,
I actually tried to glue the powerjack back onto the side but it would not work unless a play around with the adapter for a very long time, i was wondering if the problem could be with adapter or could it be with my laptop itself.
also if i get the metal adapter would i need to solder it together oris there another easier way to do this.
Thank-you.
October 11th, 2010 at 12:22 pm
l300 toshiba,
I cannot tell without testing your laptop.
Could be bad power cable on the AC adapter or bad DC jack.
Find a multimeter and test the AC adapter. If power cuts off when you move the cable, it’s bad cable. Replace the AC adapter in this case.
October 11th, 2010 at 2:36 pm
Thanks for the excellent instructions. The dis assembly and power jack and re assembly went great. Computer still would not turn on but that turned out to be the power pack. Once we picked up a new pack the computer was better than new. We had sent this computer in 3x to have this exact problem fixed and it took about two weeks every time. Now it is repaired permanently.
Thanks again!
October 18th, 2010 at 6:27 am
We own an L355 and it has been repaired three times (for free) in 2-1/2 years for this issue. The last time was Feb 2010 and it was not under warranty (ended November 2009) but I raised hell and Toshiba agreed to fix it for free, claiming they’d installed a metal clip and this one would work. Well, yesterday it broke, again. I called and they are refusing to do anything, claiming the machine is no longer under warranty. Case Manager Heather can only apologize, and give me a case number and some other numbers. When queried, she admitted that nobody at Toshiba actually reads these complaints, they just sit in a computer graveyard somewhere.
So, it appears that instead of devising a way to fix this problem correctly (as described here), Toshiba is cutting their losses.
Any lawyers out there considering a class action suit? I’d certainly volunteer to participate. Why anyone would ever buy a Toshiba laptop is a mystery to me. This is disgusting.
So it appears that I must try to fix this myself (I know nothing about computers but am reasonably handy), or find someone to do this repair. Wish me luck, and thanks to the author for the information as it is very useful in figuring out how to resolve this problem. When I get it fixed I will certainly come back to donate.
October 22nd, 2010 at 9:38 am
I have the same problem on a L505 laptop that is less than a year old. We sent it in for warranty service, but Toshiba is refusing to repair it unless we pay them $180.
The Case Manager I spoke with admitted they had covered this under warranty in the past, but that they aren’t doing it anymore because “the problem has been fixed.”
Um, no.
October 22nd, 2010 at 11:12 am
Lori,
Try calling Toshiba again and talk to a different representative.
October 23rd, 2010 at 5:22 pm
Possible better solution:
IMHO a much better solution is to use the speaker housing to your advantage. I simply put a spacer between the back of the Toshiba jack and the speaker housing; which basically forces the jack into its mounts and removes any possible movement. This way you don’t have to do any soldering or reshaping of the plastic. I just sliced up a large pencil eraser to 3 mm thickness (for a L305). Works like a charm and I didn’t have to damage/modify any of the original equipment.
October 25th, 2010 at 6:32 am
Bless you.
October 26th, 2010 at 4:41 pm
how about the power jack for a compaq presario cq60? mine got knocked loose and an instructional would be awesome
October 26th, 2010 at 6:43 pm
Question. In Canada, Radio Shack faded off to become The Source. They have the same input but it says it’s a 2.1mm i.d rather than a 2.5mm. What does that mean for me and my adaptor? Can I still use this?
October 29th, 2010 at 8:08 am
Hi, I am from England so would I have to find the part in a similar shop as they are just American?
Also, my laptop now will not charge at all, it has been very loose for a while but never caused problem before, would this be why it’s no longer charging unless I hold it at a very awkward angle which takes ages to find =/
the jack has been getting very hot when I have had to hold it too, would that be from the same problem or is it something completely different? Any help would be very much appreciated ’cause I have no idea what I’m doing with it =/
thanks, Andii x
October 29th, 2010 at 9:00 am
Andii,
I found the same jack available from eBay UK, here’s the link.
Could be AC adapter failure. Test your AC adapter with a voltmeter. If voltage cuts off when you move the cable, you’ll have to replace the adapter.
It’s hard to tell without testing the laptop. Could be bad jack or adapter failure.
October 30th, 2010 at 1:52 pm
Dude Thank your having this.. You saved my wifes computer…. I did it myself didn’t even take that long. coasted $10.00 with soldiering kit. Just showing my appreciation. They should fix this problem on these computers. You think they would change the case to stop this. But enough venting THANKS AGAIN!
November 1st, 2010 at 12:02 am
Thanks pal. Great website you got going on here. Got some extra links to point to with more information?
November 2nd, 2010 at 6:27 pm
Thanks for the great advice. Followed the directions and it works perfectly. This repair does work. You saved me a lot of cash and I really appreciate it!
November 4th, 2010 at 3:34 pm
Don’t happen to have instructions for the A505 laptop by chance do you?
November 4th, 2010 at 9:43 pm
An excellent tutorial for the novice computer repair person. A few suggestions pls. I believe it should say ‘remove insulation’ vs. isolation in Step 4. Rather than using electrical tape (which comes undone & is sticky) try heat shrink & use your solder pencil to shrink it. The shrink is available at all Radio Shacks in various sizes 1/16″, 1/8″, 1/4″ should work. Thanks for giving the size on the Jack 5.5 mm OD with 2.5 mm ID is critical & applies to my Toshiba L 35 – S2316 type also. Only on it, the plug was accidently crushed while pulled out & laying on the floor. Got a new plug from Radio Shack based on your size description for the jack, soldered that puppy back on observing a center polarity of +, tossed on some shrink & she runs like a champ! Total outlay of time 30 mins. — cash, $3 for the plug (the shrink I had).
Satisfaction level—PRICELESS!
Oh, & the static wrist straps are only $1 on ebay.
November 4th, 2010 at 10:30 pm
Tim Hurt,
LOL. Probably you are correct. English is not my native language and sometimes I use wrong words (not that I care too much about it)
The funny thing is that thousands people have been reading this post and you are the first one who mentioned this typo in comments. Thanks, I fixed it.
That’s a good idea.
That’s exactly what I’m expecting from this post!
November 4th, 2010 at 10:32 pm
Jeremy,
Yes I do. I posted disassembly guide here: http://www.irisvista.com/tech/laptops/Toshiba-Satellite-A505/removing-optical-drive-1.htm
Make sure to read through all 4 pages of the guide.
The guide explains how to remove the top cover and the rest you can figure out yourself.
November 5th, 2010 at 5:28 am
This works great on the 305 and 335. (: A+ instructions dude (:
November 5th, 2010 at 7:03 pm
I was glad to find this site. Evidently this is a common problem. I was a bit intimidated but did get the $3 part and it now works great, and I won’t need to worry about it. Make sure you read about removing the ribbon connectors. and make sure everything is reconnected correctly. I actually put it together and I couldn’t get the screen to light up. I was freaked out and I fiddled with the connectors and memory boards for quite awhile and finally it sprung to life. Weww!
November 8th, 2010 at 8:04 am
Well I was just curious.. I am getting ready to do this repair to a L305 and it appears as if I can connect the charging cord to the port and feels as if it goes in all the way but I know the port is loose.. My question is if the Cord is connecting to the port all the way and the charging cord is ok then i would think the laptop should come on? as long as there is nothing else wrong with it? I mean from what I see and read the connector is not sodered to the board so the wires should be in tact?
I wonder if I should try taking the battery off then plug it in and see what happens? it really does feel as if the cord is connecting to the power jack firmly but like I said it does move? so i wonder if it is just one post that is broken perhaps???
Ok going to read more comments …
Thanks
November 8th, 2010 at 10:10 am
I need to do the repair on my daughter’s Toshiba. I’ve worked with PCs, but never had to crack the case on a laptop. Does the HD, RAM and CD really need to be removed or can I just remove the screws on the bottom, the keyboard and the top cover?
November 8th, 2010 at 9:14 pm
I went to replace my broken power plug & cord in my L305D Satellite tonight using the instructions found here (thanks in advance) , but found out that it appears that I must remove my DVD drive to do the job . I cannot find any instructions anywhere for how to R&R the drive . Can anyone tell me how to get the drive out of the computer (once the top cover & such are out of the way) – or point me towards a how-to that’ll help me out ??
I bought a plug & play unit , figuring it’d be the easiest job , little did I know … lol !! It’s definately my plug that’s broken , not my base , BTW .
November 9th, 2010 at 7:08 am
Well just wanted to report back that I did take out the battery and tried the power cord again.. Still no joy.. Still feels as if it is connecting but will not know for sure untill I take it apart.. The owner of the laptop really is not giving me any help at all as she does not know what the symtoms where only that her children had been carrying it around by the cord!! LOL … go figure.. so I will do the replacement Jack and report back…
thanks
Roger
November 9th, 2010 at 7:09 am
does this fix work for a l505d
November 9th, 2010 at 1:22 pm
L505 is essentially the same, but you can’t use the
pencil eraser trick. Thanks!
November 12th, 2010 at 1:20 pm
Well I did purchase another powercord and block for the laptop.. plugged it in and WOW it turned on.. so I know the connection is good.. Now all I have to do is the repair to the plug.. I will do that this weekend..
Thanks
November 12th, 2010 at 11:46 pm
Worked great! did it just as you did, the Soldering was a pain due to the angel, but it worked out good.
Powered on just fine, chargers properly.
November 15th, 2010 at 5:25 pm
THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU!
Had more trouble dealing with my local Radio Shack then following this guide. This specific DC Jack design might have been discontinued. It shows up on Radio Shack’s website and even tells you which stores carries it.
So, I drove there in person to buy it, but when I asked personnel to look it up through Radio Shack’s internal computer inventory system, it doesn’t show up at all, so there may be some kind of status disconnect with the Internal inventory program and the website or just human error. Who knows?
Ended up using a similar DC Jack that was in stock, part number “274-1583″. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102599. The only difference is how the locking nut screws on to the jack. So, instead of having the nut hidden on the inside, it sits on the outside, but it still works beautifully nice and sturdy!
For those not familiar, Radio Shack has these electronic pieces stored in these pull out draws. Their system doesn’t work so hot if the pieces get too unorganized by customers and no service person takes the time to reorganize the inventory.
And finally, When soldering make sure you use enough solder to produce a nice shinny raindrop-like bead, not a flat dull waffle. Bead it up and shine on!
November 15th, 2010 at 7:28 pm
I just followed the instructions, but just super glued the existing power jack back into place. The plastic brackets were not completely broken, allowing me to put it in place and super glue it back in. I made sure to glue as generously as i could (to make it rock solid) without touching any other components inside.
I hope this is OK, any thoughts? It’s not a fire hazard or anything, is it?
Thanks for any comments
November 16th, 2010 at 6:05 pm
I have a Toshiba Satellite A305. I can now say the charge port reads everything perfectly. As for the solution here, the only real difficult parts for my particular model is the sodering of the red wire, fitting the attached wires back into the small space, and cutting off the plastic placeholders. Just want to say, it may get frustrating on some of these steps…and it may be like its bordering on impossible, but hang in there. The solution posted above works. It worked perfectly for me. It just takes patience. So patience vs. 300 dollars. Easy one.
Thank you so much for the guide, and the responses in the comments they really helped me figure out any surprise or problem I ran into during these steps. Read and follow this guide, and it there are problems or surprises you run into, read the comments. Laptop Tech was incredibly helpful. Thanks again.
November 17th, 2010 at 10:42 am
Thanks for this blog. My daughter’s 1 year old L505 laptop had this same issue. it was frustrating both of us. Finally I read this blag, ordered the part from ebay and did the surgery. Now the laptop charges and all is well. Thanks!
November 22nd, 2010 at 6:44 am
Right this is a quick and cheap solution for those worried about laptop dismantling but you mustn’t do it if you suspect short circuiting (smoke/noise) or a dead socket but I found where ‘wiggling’ made connection it works:
Requires superglue (use surgical gloves / eye protection if you’re extra cautious), round tip surgical forceps (or a 2mm clutch pencil).
REMOVE BATTERY FROM LAPTOP. Place laptop on flat surface. Push floating power socket in slightly to expose gap. Inject superglue round bottom half of hole. Make sure you get none in the actual socket. CHECK YOU REMOVED BATTERY! Grasp central pin with forceps or open jaws of clutch pencil and pull gently towards you. Hold – hold – hold. When glue is set invert laptop and try to get superglue in top half of hole (there may be a hairline gap). Leave about 8 hours to set hard. Replace battery, plug in power and hopefully it holds. It worked for me and with careful treatment should last some time though if it comes adrift you can repeat the process.
November 22nd, 2010 at 10:28 am
Just wanted to say thanks for saving my Toshiba Satellite L515-S4960. I used this method with little modification to replace the dislodged/broken power jack, and it worked great. None of the Radio Shacks in my area had the correct jack in stock, and another generic jack I tried would not fit, but once I mail-ordered the exact one used here, all went well.
November 26th, 2010 at 10:23 pm
Thank you so much for this post on the website!! I used the exact pieces and modifications for my Satellite L355 and all went well. I took everything apart and put it back together just like the explanation says and my computer turned on and charged again! It fired up and charged perfectly. You saved me tons of time wasted trying to wiggle around the connector on the inside. Now I have a more reliable connection and it will last me a long time. Thanks!
November 28th, 2010 at 6:59 pm
This is an excellent solution to remedy Toshiba’s flawed design. BTW, I use your site quite a bit when disassembling notebooks.
November 30th, 2010 at 2:43 pm
Excellent presentation. You clearly identify the problem, discuss the solution, and then proceed to describe each step well with very good images.
For those who have trouble finding a part such as the replacement power jack – look in your yellow pages under electronics. There may be other stores than Radio Shack and there may be some surplus electronic stores in your area. Don’t expect a lot of glitz at surplus stores – just lots of parts and you may have to hunt till you find what you need.
Take your power supply with you so that you can be sure the jack fits the plug on the power supply.
November 30th, 2010 at 10:40 pm
I used this DC jack on my Satellite L505d but twisted in the housing essentially threading the recessed hole. It was very tight despite no washer and nut. The knurled part of the jack got marks from my pliers. This allows me to revert to the stock jack although with a now threaded hole. There was plenty of room behind the jack and extra wire length. Keep track of the screws, I had one of the 30 or so without a hole…
December 1st, 2010 at 10:01 pm
Worked amazingly on my Toshiba Satellite A305. Used the same jack shown in the tutorial, but instead of enlarging the hole for the old jack I was able to simply screw the new one in using a pair of pliers. It was a bit tricky to solder in the space constraints, so either remove all the components or just make sure you pop the speaker out. Thank you so much for the tutorial.
$3 for the jack, $4 for solder, and $5 for a soldering iron = WAY cheaper than commercial repairs.
December 4th, 2010 at 6:23 pm
L305 repaired. Jack was pushed in/”broken” just like the picture up top shows. Works and looks great so far! (used a rotary tool to grind down the plastic) – now my video cable apparently is going as I have wack snow & colors all over (I hope it’s that and not the connector!)
Next up is a L355…the power jack on that one is fine, but going to mod it anyway so I don’t run into future issues.
I can see why the repairs are what they are…most of it is an hour or 2 of labor at what, 40-60/hour? However, to likely charge high for a $3-$5 part is pretty asinine…or even in this case having to replace the whole bottom base (talk about a design flaw).
Even still, I like doing these things myself….fun, can be done in house, and I don’t have to “lose” the laptop for who knows how long…
Thanks!
December 6th, 2010 at 11:59 pm
you don’t have to replace the jack…it’s not broken, just not attached. all you have to do is take apart the laptop and super glue the jack back on the mount where it belongs. if you aren’t getting power, check the cord. we fixed the jack and found out i had a bad cord.
December 8th, 2010 at 5:07 pm
flanum,
I’m not sure if superglue can keep the jack in place forever. Probably not.
If you want to glue it back, use epoxy instead.
December 11th, 2010 at 3:36 pm
Not sure how else to quote myself , but I’m still curious how to get my DVD drive out of my L305D Satellite :
**** POST #304 on Nov 8th****
“I went to replace my broken power plug & cord in my L305D Satellite tonight using the instructions found here (thanks in advance) , but found out that it appears that I must remove my DVD drive to do the job . I cannot find any instructions anywhere for how to R&R the drive . Can anyone tell me how to get the drive out of the computer (once the top cover & such are out of the way) – or point me towards a how-to that’ll help me out ??
I bought a plug & play unit , figuring it’d be the easiest job , little did I know … lol !! It’s definately my plug that’s broken , not my base , BTW .”
December 12th, 2010 at 3:04 pm
Power Jack replacement works great, and Yes, actually looks better to boot !!!
Just a suggestion as I don’t know if all Toshibas are the same, but the cable harness on mine is long enough that after clippping off the old broken jack from the harness, you got enough cable to pull the wires thru the mounting hole on the laptop base, so slide the retaining nut from the new jack over the wires, push the wires thru the mounting hole on the side of the base, and now ya got room to do the soldering outside the laptop base instead of the confinds of the soldering gun inside the base where it’s hard to see and work, then simply slide the new jack into place, slide locknut up wire to jack and tighten down. Works alot better on old eyes like mine and alot easier !!
December 13th, 2010 at 1:41 pm
This worked perfectly with my Satellite L305D.
Thank you so much!
December 13th, 2010 at 1:44 pm
Sorry for double post, for the below with the L305D as well:
On the bottom of the laptop you need to remove the panel on the very center, where the memory slots are, and there is a screw that just is connected to a single tab. After removing that, the DVD drive will slide directly out of the side with ease!
December 15th, 2010 at 1:49 am
Another DVD removal question. I have a L300 model. I am having trouble getting the DVD drive out. At first, I thought it was necessary to remove the mother board. This proved to be difficult. I consulted the comments and read about the screw under the RAM panel on the bottom of the laptop. When I opened it up I saw that there are actually 2 screws on the L300 model and that they’re essentially halfway blocked by the bronze like metal that’s at the base of the laptop under the motherboard. Basically I can’t get to these screws. Anyone know what to do? Thanks.
December 15th, 2010 at 1:54 am
WOW!! I’m a buffoon. Just got the DVD out literally 2 minutes after I posted. The tab that it’s screwed into has to be finagled a little to get the DVD out. Guess I was just being overly cautious. There is only that screw the other 2 don’t matter I guess.
December 15th, 2010 at 1:03 pm
I have followed the instructions for replacing the power input and put the computer together. All I get when I try to power on is a blinking battery light but does not start. Also the recharge light does not come on when plugged in. Can anyone help with this. Is there a reset inside that needed to be pushed. Your thoughts appreciated!
I thought the directions were spot on but could I have missed something?
December 15th, 2010 at 1:16 pm
Susan,
There is no way I can tell what is wrong without looking at the laptop. If you did everything correctly, the laptop should start and charge properly.
Check memory modules, make sure they are seated correctly.
You can disassemble the laptop to barebone system and troubleshoot from there.
All you need is motherboard, CPU, and memory. Nothing else.
Make sure all internal connectors plugged correctly.
December 15th, 2010 at 2:37 pm
It was a bad adapter and a very weak batteryl Luckily for me we have three of these computers gifted form Santa a few years ago. Spare parts!
Thanks for the directions on replacing the input. You saved me big money.
December 16th, 2010 at 9:16 pm
Thanks tons, you made a terrific cost into an easy job, cheers
December 17th, 2010 at 8:01 pm
Or you could do what I did…. just remove the original supports and super glue the face of the connector to the inside of the case. Works great!
December 19th, 2010 at 11:22 pm
now my laptop is working but 1 thing the charge and battery light keeps flashing and i dont know y
December 22nd, 2010 at 1:21 am
man there charging me 175.99 to fix this problem them jerks! ):
December 22nd, 2010 at 8:14 pm
Thank you for this well-detailed and documented solution for Toshiba’s (admitted) design flaw. I actually had this thought before… “Why don’t they install an all-metal or re-inforced jack on these machines?” Your solution answers this question. I just wish Toshiba had done something similar in the first place!
My L355 has been in for warranty repair for this problem twice, and it broke loose again this evening (3-months out of warranty). Both of my two L305′s have been in for warranty repair of this defect as well, but they are still holding up, so far…. (But I’m going to mod all three to make sure)
Each time the laptops have been returned, the repair summary specifically indicate “Installed revised DC-in”. From what I can tell after opening up the L355 this evening, the “revision” is nothing more than a replacement base with thicker plastic supports and a “tab” that sits behind the jack-block to help steady it in place as the plug is inserted. The “tab” is very thin and apparently prone to the same (or less) breaking pressure as the side supports.
“J” said someone was charging him $179 for this repair (probably Toshiba OOW repair), so using that factor, plus shipping (both ways), spending a couple of hours at my desk with a $3 part for each of my laptops will save me well over $600!…
Unfortunately, I don’t have these jacks in my arsenal of parts, but I’ll be off to the parts shop or Radio Shack tomorrow morning to pick up three of them!
December 28th, 2010 at 8:58 pm
Followed your guide and everything worked perfect. I had the P305, taking apart was pretty tough but the soldering and creating the bigger hole was easy enough.
Thanks for this guide!
December 29th, 2010 at 5:16 am
Just wanted to say thanks to Laptop Tech for posting this How-To and giving me the confidence to tackle this job myself .
Thanks also to Colby for telling me how to get my DVD drive out of my L305D . Removing that hidden screw under the memory slot lid did the trick – it popped right out ! I can’t believe I missed it the first time ’round . I replaced my broken socket with a plug-n-play replacement & now it works as new !
January 2nd, 2011 at 12:57 pm
Thank you so much!!! $3 part from Radio shack and a $7 sodering iron did the trick! Taking the computer apart was the hardest part! Great instructions and pictures!
January 3rd, 2011 at 6:50 am
I can confirm this works on a Satellite L355D that I repaired last night. It did not require the top cover to be modified, it snaps in with no gap without any modification.
January 3rd, 2011 at 5:26 pm
Worked great. I am now a hero to my daughter… LOL.
January 11th, 2011 at 10:58 am
great guide, just replaced the power jack on a friends toshiba l300.
you can get the radio shack part in the uk from http://radioshackuk.co.uk/
anyone having problems with there touch pad after completeing this repair should reseat the cable fromthe touch pad to the motherboard, worked for me
paul
January 12th, 2011 at 10:04 am
Thank you, thank you. Worked great on my 355D. I just flipped the internal harness and put back in the groove. There was enough groove left in place to hold it in. Unfortunately I had to by a new powercord which had also broke which set me back $80. Probably could have bought for $30 but didn’t want to wait. Removal of 2 of the 4 plug ins from the motherboard is not easy .. might want to suggest the best way of approaching this. Of course the big box store where I bought it as well as the repair shop suggested it would probably make sense just to buy a new laptop. Jerks.
January 13th, 2011 at 6:08 am
THANKS SO MUCH for the GREAT procedure on replacing the power jack on a Toshiba L305. My daughter is in college and needs her laptop on a daily basis. Using your excellent instructions I was easily able to replace the dislodged jack with the Radio Shack replacement.
I made a donation to the site, thanks again
John
January 13th, 2011 at 9:23 am
paul,
Cool! Looks like it’s even same part number for the jack in UK.
January 13th, 2011 at 9:50 am
Aaron,
Most likely the plastic groove which holds the DC jack in place is weak and will fail again. Be careful when you push the adapter plug into the jack and… be ready to take it apart again.
By they way, you can put something (like a piece of pencil eraser) behind the jack to support it.
January 13th, 2011 at 10:30 am
john ohio,
It feels good to help people.
Hope this repair last for a long time.
Thank you for the donation.
January 13th, 2011 at 1:57 pm
Hi…What an amazing find!!!! So awesome that you posted these instructions…obviously a huge problem with the Toshiba Laptops.. I have a new problem now. When I unplugged my keyboard the little white/off white latch I believe locks the connection…broke off…I connected the keyboard back up and pushed the latch back in and it stayed however now some of the keys will no longer work..ugh. I ordered a new keyboard thinking that I must have hurt the lines in the connection ribbon but the problem continued….any suggestions??
Thanks
Kimberly
January 13th, 2011 at 2:05 pm
Kimberly,
Do not lose the broken piece.
Try reseating keyboard connection again.
1. Make sure the keyboard cable inserted all the way into the connector.
2. Push the broken piece back into the connector.
3. Secure connection with sticky tape.
Take a look at this post: http://www.laptoprepair101.com/laptop/2009/11/17/fix-broken-keyboard-connector-on-laptop-motherboard/
January 15th, 2011 at 8:52 pm
thanks for the info, easy to follow instructions it differs a little from my l305 model but easy to understand, worked great for l305
January 20th, 2011 at 4:23 pm
I just found your power jack repair instructions after visiting ‘The Geek Squad’ who told me (without opening the L305) that I would need to replace the motherboard at a cost of $200-$300 cause the broken jack was connected directly to it, and coudn’t be soldered.
I suspected the “…geek” was lying…still studying your proceedure.
January 21st, 2011 at 8:27 pm
Just finished the repair on my l305d and it went perfectly. Thanks for the fantastic tutorial!
January 24th, 2011 at 2:24 am
Hello Dear,
I want to buy this item, ( original Tosshiba jack ) for my toshiba laptop L300 149 . Please how can buy this item and can I use for this Laptop . Pleas if you can tell me.
thank you very much .
January 24th, 2011 at 8:30 pm
Sabir Mahmood,
Are you looking for the ORIGINAL jack? You can find it on eBay.
January 26th, 2011 at 10:48 pm
I followed all these instructions and the charger port is now working. But it still seems to be sensitive and I still have the problem of finding the right angle for the plug for it to want to charge. Also, I may have done something wrong during the process because my trackpad is no longer working. I have a feeling a may have bent one of the connecting pins. Can anyone tell me what I could have done wrong?
January 28th, 2011 at 1:23 pm
This problem with the power jack is fairly common with Toshiba laptops. I have had several other Toshiba Satellite laptops with the same problem with the plastic tabs breaking. Some of them were still under warranty, however Toshiba would not cover the cost of the part. Their warranty department claimed they do not cover any plastic parts with their warranty. That is somewhat unbelieveable , considering most of the weight of a laptop is from plastic.
January 30th, 2011 at 8:37 am
I recently performed this repair on my cousin’s toshiba laptop. Instead of using a pocket knife for step 2, I used a 1/2 inch wide flat file and rotated the file around (screw type motion) to widen the hole. It makes for a cleaner hole and it shaves the plastic away in whole pieces rather than shards. To the owner(s) of this post, please reply to this if you are interested in posting them on the site to help aide others.
February 3rd, 2011 at 4:08 pm
I had performed this on a Satellite A135 laptop, and it worked to some extent. Whenever I plug in the connector, it charges the battery and a blue LED shows up, yet it refuses to power on. I simply figure that I trashed the power button, because I had reseated multiple connectors and the memory, and it still does not power on.
I suppose that’s another $3 answer to a $200 question.
February 5th, 2011 at 12:38 pm
Just tried this on Toshiba L350 and it worked!
Few issues:
Count all the screws as some may go missing and retrace your dissasembling steps from any only guide. I used http://www.irisvista.com
1) I burnt my left fingers as I never used a soldering iron before so be EXTRA CAREFUL when soldering for the VERY FIRST TIME. I suggest watching some videos on Youtube to get an idea of soldering and examples of how to use it. Then get old speaker or electrical wires and practise soldering over some newspaper.
2) Get someone to help you, I got my dad who held the soldering iron for me whilst I was being extra careful this time.
3) Always ‘tin’ the tip of the iron with some lead just before using otherwise heat will not spread and you will sit there wondering whats taking so long.
4) I used a drill to make the hole a bit bigger although you can screw in the new DC jack. Dont use pliers to twist it into the metal as you wear the new jack out, use finger first then use a spanner to secure it.
5) Take the power cord (red+black) or (green+black) out by unplugging and twist and solder the wires elsewhere, away from the laptop. It’s quite tricky at first by practise first.
6) Dont burn the outer casing of laptop, I did that. Get someone to hold the iron for you.
7) Use black electrical tape as stated above
9) Say thanks to the creator of this guide. THANK YOU!!!
10) Good luck in your reparing.
Again, this worked for the Toshiba L350 laptop.
Jahedur, London, UK
February 8th, 2011 at 11:15 am
Thanks for the instructions. You saved me $200 for the repair. Though the disassembly was a chore with the endless screws, it was a breeze after. Also, I never realized how easy it is to solder and it definitely gave me confidence to tackle more advanced projects in the future.
More power to you and I hope you help more people.
PS I’m donating a lil something for you
February 9th, 2011 at 8:31 pm
I had this same problem with my Satellite 305. I did everything the instructions said and now everything works great! I can’t thank you enough for taking the time to post this. You saved me time and most importantly, $$$$$. The part was $3.50 at Radio Shack and it took me an hour total to fix it. (once i found all the damn screws!). I got estimates on it earlier today for $150, $130 and $160+ which is what led me to search for an alternative. Thanks and God Bless you for posting this tutorial!
Ryan
February 9th, 2011 at 8:37 pm
Oh btw, now my mouspad isn’t working. How is the mousepad connected in the back and is that easy to damage?
Thanks
Ryan
February 14th, 2011 at 11:12 am
Is this compatible with a A205-s5804?
I don’t want to buy it and do all that if it’s not. I’ve heard that some parts that are compatible with A200 are compatible with A205, but not all, so I was checking.
February 23rd, 2011 at 7:53 pm
I replaced the component and everything went smoothly, laptop still works!
However, my battery still wont charge from the power source internally, I have to disengage it and plug it up to my external charger to have power. What else could be wrong?
February 23rd, 2011 at 9:18 pm
Moni,
If the DC jack works properly and the battery is good, this is motherboard related failure.
Apparently, the battery charging circuit on the motherboard is fried.
February 26th, 2011 at 8:56 am
This was a huge amount of help. Thanks.
March 1st, 2011 at 3:06 pm
What is the best way to reconnect those tiny ribbon cables that we disconnect in step 9 here?:
http://www.irisvista.com/tech/laptops/Toshiba-Satellite-L355D/laptop-disassembly-2.htm
March 2nd, 2011 at 7:59 am
Thanks for the great article !!! My kids 305 is working great now.
My kids always stretch the A/C cords too far and this toshiba design is so very poor the plastic tabs break off. I do see bottom covers on ebay for ~$10 but it’s likely this will happen over and over again. I’m also not sure the “super-glue” method will work the way my kids are. The metal jack is VERY solid now. It doesn’t look as pretty but I’d rather have strength for the kids.
The jack was $3 at radio shack. They have a soldering kit for $7.99 which worked fine.
It took me ~2 hrs to do all the work start to tinish.
I used a file to make the hole smooth – It didn’t take much work to make it bigger.
Maybe sure to have a VERY small philips for the 2 keybrd screws.
Make sure to take out the 1 @ DVD screw (inside the memory door cover) and the DVD out.
Some people say the touchpad didn’t work afterwards.
be VERY careful to remove (and then replace) the touch-pad ribbon cable properly/gently.
lift the kebrd up SLOWLY and slide out the 2 “tabs” with a screwdriver and pull the cable out gently!
if you PULL the keybrd up without remving this ribbon cable – it will break at the other end
(under the black tape). if you do happen to bend/break this ribbon cable – don’t sweat it – they sell them on e-bay for around $7 shipped.
Hope my extra comments help someone.
~Scott~
March 3rd, 2011 at 9:02 pm
Thank you for this site. I am so grateful for this fix. Everything worked – nearly – as planned.
Although I am familiar with building desktop pc’s, this was my first time disassembling my laptop pc. The link to
http://www.irisvista.com/tech/laptops/Toshiba-Satellite-L355D/laptop-disassembly-1.htm
is a very good choice but they don’t concern themselves with explaining the finer details of disassembling of the ribbon cables or more importantly – - how to put reverse that process. In my case, the directions worked just fine. I had to figure out some things for myself. Just be careful with those ribbon cables. What I learned was that those tiny little black things are clips. Yes, it may seem obvious to you, but it wasn’t to me; and believe me, if you pull the ribbon even slightly, it will come out without any argument. Usually and hopefully, with no damage. Nevertheless, when you find the ribbon cable that you want to release, look for the little black plastic clips and pull them away from the ribbon mount. You don’t have to pull them all the way “out”. Just far enough to see that they have moved. The edges of the ribbon clip mounts can be seen well in this pic: http://www.irisvista.com/tech/laptops/Toshiba-Satellite-L355D/big/laptop-disassembly-guide-09.jpg
Once you have done that, you can continue with the directions as smooth as silk. Once you get back to RE-assembling, you won’t have the troubles I had with re-connecting the ribbon cables because you will have already understood how the mechanisms worked. i.e. leave the ribbon cable mount clips in the “open” position, slide the ribbon cable in, and move the ribbon cable mount clip to the “closed” position.
If you have never soldered before. Be careful with that particular, radio shack part #274-1576, part when soldering. I didn’t know what I was doing and I melted it. I know I messed up, but I was doing my best to pay attention. By the way, most of the Radio Shack stores had that part in stock.
Once again, thank you for the site. I didn’t ruin anything (too valuable) and I only had to go through two power jacks because I heated up the center lead for too long and melted the plastic lead mold. $20 for a solder kit that I wanted anyway and only $6 for parts. That is a steal to have a pc that is fixed in better condition than you started!
March 3rd, 2011 at 9:07 pm
The modification I performed was on the L355D-S7825. The only minor problem I ran into was the length of the power wires from the Mobo to the jack. I unwound some from the mobo side to give some slack to the power jack side and it was no problem. There is plenty of space, as you mentioned, and plenty of power cord. It is simply a re-arrangement situation because the wire is wrapped around that plastic piece that can be seen in many of the illustrations.
March 5th, 2011 at 12:37 pm
Have an L305-SXXXX. Worked great. $4 and 2 hours.
March 6th, 2011 at 6:44 pm
Thanks so much ! Worked a treat , even though I’d never dared to do it without finding your site.
Quoted $200 but thanks to you it cost me $3 , plus my wife thinks I’m a hero for fixing her precious laptop.
First I tried just gluing the broken jack & no power ,so I was extra pleased it worked after soldering
March 7th, 2011 at 6:59 pm
OK. Replaced power jack on Toshiba Satellite L305. I followed the instructions to the letter. Laptop will still not charge. Any suggestions?
March 10th, 2011 at 3:15 pm
Eric,
It’s hard to tell what’s going on without testing the laptop. If you installed new jack correctly and the battery will not charge, it’s either bad battery or motherboard problem. You’ll have to find another working battery for test.
If you have the same problem with a new battery, this is motherboard failure.
March 13th, 2011 at 5:24 pm
I repaired my loose power jack (L305D model) with high heat hot glue – plenty of room around socket for a bit of this stuff and there is some support to help hold the dried glue firmly in place. Also thanks for documenting how to remove the casing – The photos weren’t of my exact model but I got the general idea. (Happily made a donation
)
March 13th, 2011 at 9:11 pm
Tracy S,
Thank you very much for your donation!
March 14th, 2011 at 4:52 pm
That is what I was thinking too, just needed another opinion to confirm. Thanks, LaptopTech.
March 18th, 2011 at 5:56 am
Another successful A305 jack repaired. Very informative. Great job! and thanks for everything
March 19th, 2011 at 12:34 pm
I have DOUBLE TROUBLE with two L305-5899 laptops that only charge if the DC charger wire is pushed and held to the laptop. I have used three different power supplies on both laptops and both laptops return the same result. I have disassembled one of the laptops (thanks to your instructions) and the jack inside seems to have a little play but otherwise looks fine. Any clue as to why I have identical problems with two laptops when the inside of one seems to be fine?
Also where is a good place to pick up a DC charger for this model number?
March 24th, 2011 at 12:36 am
Thanks so much you saved my laptop!!!! L355D
March 26th, 2011 at 12:55 pm
Thanks for the great guide on fixing this very common problem with Toshiba laptops. THe disassembly guide is a godsend. I used a small flat file to enlargen the hole for the new DC jack and it worked just fine.
Many thanks once again.
March 30th, 2011 at 5:10 pm
Preformed the repair and everything seemed to go smoothly. Plugged it back in…the green power light came on for a brief second and then went out. I tried to jiggle the jack to see if something was loose, but nothing happens. Any suggestions?
March 30th, 2011 at 5:49 pm
Tim,
Did you test the AC adapter? Does it output correct voltage. It’s possible your AC adapter is dead.
March 31st, 2011 at 1:53 pm
Many thanks for a brilliant website. Have just completed repairing my grandaughters Toshiba DC socket. I found all of the process clear except for the ribbon connectors e.g for the keyboard. I agonised for a long time before making a few careful but futile attempts to free the ribbon. Once I could recognise the locking strip and move it away the ribbon came free. The rest easy sailing. Many thanks from a happy grandaughter! and grandpa
April 2nd, 2011 at 7:18 pm
I folllowed the instructions and it still does not charge. I do know that the low battery light blinks when I press the power button. Does that mean that the battery still works? Not sure what to do…please help.
April 2nd, 2011 at 10:54 pm
Thank you very much for your intructions. It took my boyfriend and I 5 hours with breaks to replace the part. We had to do this twice since we got it all in and the right speaker wouldn’t fit, so we had to redo without being able to use the nut to hold in it unfortunately. Make sure all who has the L305 bend the long conductor like it says on the instructions, you will need every bit of space!
THanks, great demo
April 8th, 2011 at 12:21 pm
Cynthia,
Did you test voltage on the AC adapter.
It’s possible your laptop will not charge because the AC adapter is dead.
It’s possible the battery light blinks because the battery has no charge.
I would suggest testing the AC adapter with a voltmeter OR test your laptop with another known good AC adapter.
April 12th, 2011 at 10:55 am
hey dude your doing a great job i done every thing you said but i have to turn my charger in the jack too charge any idea s i am going too buy an other charger tomorrow if you had paypal set up i would send you money no problem for all those brain dead people the part number for the jack is in the picture up there
April 12th, 2011 at 11:58 am
john donaghy,
It’s possible you have a problem with the charger cable, not the DC jack.
Test your charger with a voltmeter. If power cuts off when you move the cable, you’ll have to replace the charger.
April 13th, 2011 at 7:46 am
I did this repair on an a305. I bought a small ‘detail’ soldering iron to make the soldering a little easier. Because access is so tight, I don’t think I did a great job re-taping the leads on the connector when I was done, but I think it is good enough. I suspect that not doing a good enough job re-insulating those leads is a bit of a fire hazard, so everyone please do a good job on this part. It took me 4-5 hours in total. This makes me wonder….why couldn’t the Toshiba have spent an extra buck, and built a robust connection like this in the first place, given the wear and tear on that connection. Thanks very much for the instructions and pictures!
April 13th, 2011 at 7:56 am
Doug,
This would make a laptop about $2-3 more expensive. I guess Toshiba thinks it’s too much for an average US consumer.
April 13th, 2011 at 5:30 pm
thank u so much. i just moved in to a new house. my neighbor showed me his broken power jack and i offered to try to fix it. 1 1/2 hours later, it was fixed!! i just got some cool points!! Thanks again
April 18th, 2011 at 11:01 pm
Hello there, …
Thank you for all the job – it was easy to dissassemble the Toshiba L300D… I have bought the new DC connector and it looks almost the same as yours, but there are 3 leads, not 2 as on yours. One of them should be “shunt”, but I do no know know, how to connect it… Please, help, …
April 19th, 2011 at 11:35 am
“THANKS” for a brilliant website. Have just completed repairing my daugthers Toshiba DC socket. I found all of the process clear . THANKS again, many thanks from my daughter too
April 26th, 2011 at 7:16 am
Hi, does anyone know if this would work on a P300-1c9? I am also in the UK, anyone have any idea were it could get the part from?
Angela
May 7th, 2011 at 4:40 am
Absoutely Fantastic!!!! So glad I came across your page! Took me 1 hour to do this! I have the Satellite L300D-13R and its all fixed!!!! This is the second laptop I’ve had with this problem the first one went to a work collegue of my mums to get fixed and it never came back! So this time trusted no1 but myself and it’s done!
Thank you soo much!!!
May 9th, 2011 at 10:36 am
I have a A205 model. Do you think this will work for it? I really hope so.
May 9th, 2011 at 9:18 pm
I just replaced the connector on my Toshiba Satellite A205- S5800 model and it now chars with no problem and it only cost me $13. That is a steal!!!!! Thanks so much.
May 12th, 2011 at 5:04 am
Thanks for the write up. Successfully replaced DJ jack on a L305 with little difficulty. Cost was $14 including the jack and Soldering iron from Radio Shack. The guy there was really impressed that I had a part number.
As a note, you need to push the wires down where they curve as mine got in the way when putting the DVD drive back in the slot.
May 12th, 2011 at 1:59 pm
Shay,
I think so. Luke (comment 189) reported that this fix worked for his Satellite A200 laptop which is identical to Satellite A205.
May 13th, 2011 at 7:17 pm
I just used these instructions for an A305 – we’re back up and running! Thanks!!
May 16th, 2011 at 12:22 pm
great!
i had a customer with this laptop (toshiba satellite L305D), and saved quite a bit of money and time as well (didnt have to order parts online), the fix works perfectly, and the new jack looks as sturdy as it feels!
my input with regards to the repair:
===========================
1)
i like to use hot glue to insulate the bare wires and contacts in places where it is hard to get electrical tape in place neatly.
2)
i concur: check your polarity at every step! even those of us who do this all the time can make mistakes, and in fact it is probably those of us with too much experience who can be careless or unthinking!
thanks for your idea / suggestion / repair information.
cheers,
~ kyle allen yoshida
kylecanfixit01 AT gmail DOT com
May 16th, 2011 at 5:48 pm
Thanks for posting these instructions! I was able to repair mine myself with no problems. I have a L355.
May 16th, 2011 at 8:55 pm
kyle yoshida,
This is a very good advise.
May 16th, 2011 at 10:58 pm
This fix worked very well for me. One improvement I want to suggest is using blue threadlocking compound on the threads of the new jack. Its not like you can really get a wrench in there to really tighten the nut fully, so the hand-tightened nut is likely to work its self loose over time and will be a big pain in the butt to get back in there and adjust. The thread locking compound that I used will probably prevent this from happening.
May 17th, 2011 at 2:14 pm
the jack i got from radio shack has three prongs.
Which two do I use?
May 17th, 2011 at 2:20 pm
chris,
Did you get the right jack at all? My jack had only two prongs.
May 18th, 2011 at 4:51 pm
Works on for the Toshiba L350-S1701! Thanks!!
May 22nd, 2011 at 2:23 pm
I accomplished this repair/mod on my Toshiba L305 and I am very pleased with the results. Definitely the best permanent fix for this problem. There’s a few tips I would like to share with other L305 owners who are going to tackle this mod. First, the link to disassembly instructions provided does not apply to the L305 so you need to go and find that because it’s a totally different procedure for the L305. I decided to leave the outer rim of the mounting hole intact because I thought it would look better and I only needed to open up the inner diameter a little with a Dremil tool for the jack to fit in there. I think it also helps to provide better clearance for the wires. The use of a Dremil makes short,clean and accurate work enlarging the hole and removing the plastic material needed for the jack to fit properly. Also I think the use of heat shrink is a lot easier and cleaner looking. Good Luck.
May 23rd, 2011 at 7:24 am
Thanks so much for this DYI fix for the 355. I was able to fix my daughter’s laptop by myself for $3.00. I had been quoted ~$250.00 to fix it…replacing the old plug, w/ another like it, and sometimes a new bottom portion of the case. I used heat shrink on the wires instead of electrical tape. One computer guy tried to discourage me by saying he guaranteed I’d have at least one screw left over when I reassembled the computer. He was wrong! Aha! For someone who had no experience working on laptops, I had to study how to remove a couple of the cables, and how to remove the RAM sets. I made notes in numerical order, a few pictures, and put things in baggies w/ labels on them. It took this newbie a whole 3 hours to do this job. Thanks for the help.
May 25th, 2011 at 5:14 am
Just wondered what is the best way to check the polarity?
May 28th, 2011 at 2:23 pm
@ Heidi,
Use a voltmeter.
June 6th, 2011 at 1:02 pm
Worked great on my toshiba C655
Cost was $3.15. computer shop wanted to charge me $200.00
June 7th, 2011 at 6:51 am
Just got off the phone with Toshiba, they said the jack is nto covered by their warrenty…
I saw Carlos’s post that it worked on the C655, that’s what I have, ill be trying it tonight!!
Carlos, is this the same part number for the jack as mentioned above? part number 274-1576?
Thanks!!
June 7th, 2011 at 3:33 pm
Hi, I did your fix for my Toshiba laptop. I was able to do it but then it wouldn’t work. Once I plugged in the adaptor the lights on the front of the computer came on but the display never did. A friend told me that I probably messed up the graphics card/board somehow when I did this or it got fried when it originally shut down when the power went off and the jack was broken. Any ideas on how to get the display up and running? The fan works, power lights are one, just no image on screen. If I can’t get this to work, do you know how I can get my data off my hard drive so at least I can use that?
Thank you. Great website! Amy
June 10th, 2011 at 8:37 am
Where can I buy this DC power jack in Canada?
I tried Tigerdirect, Canada computers, Best buy, Source… no luck
Thanks.
June 18th, 2011 at 6:53 pm
Thanks for your help. What a great site. Everything worked perfect
June 25th, 2011 at 7:04 am
Thanks! Fixed it for my customer. Found out the jack and power adapter were both bad!
June 28th, 2011 at 1:42 pm
Hey
Interessting user guide, especially the new dc jack used that seems firmer than the original.
After reading this guide, it seems this new DC jack consist of two pieces: one piece goes inside and the other piece outside works like a screw nut, this have to be made firm with a schrewdriver of the same size of the nut, will it never get loose?
Can I do this for a packard bell easynote mb65-P-026, it has a nr on the jack: 070417-90W
Is it possible to change the orginal jack with a same version you used and using the same power supply cable?
July 3rd, 2011 at 5:48 pm
Laptop Tech,
First off, thank you so much for this guide! I have a Toshiba Satellite A505 and unlike commenters SwagOnGeek and Jeremy, your fix totally worked for me. The new jack sits in there perfectly, and after a good soldiering job, the power works 100% of the time!
For your other readers, I used this laptop disassembly guide, http://www.irisvista.com/tech/laptops/Toshiba-Satellite-A505/removing-optical-drive-1.htm
I do have two small problems that I noticed after the repairs, and I did not know if you had any information about them:
-The touchpad no longer works. While doing step 11 of the disassembly guide linked above, the small black piece that held the cable in place came completely off (not sure if it was supposed to or not), but I can no longer get it on securely to hold the cable where it needs to be. Is there an adhesive or other fix for this that you know about?
-The top cover would not snap back on snugly all the way around. The right side (with all the jacks on it), below (but not at) the power jack is the worst culprit, but the area around the touchpad also will not snap back on.
Any advice?
July 4th, 2011 at 7:18 am
Oh man we run into this issue all the time. You would think the manufactures would fix this issue.
Will this work on a Toshiba p205-s6237. I am replacing the CCFL bulb at the same time i am doing this mod as well……hope it all goes smooth!
July 6th, 2011 at 11:47 am
Can you show how to remove the optical drive on the L305? I’ve looked all over. It’s not like the others.
July 6th, 2011 at 11:53 am
@ Dave,
I don’t remember off the top of my head but if there are no screws securing the DVD drive on the bottom of the laptop, most likely they are under the keyboard.
Take a look at this guide: http://www.irisvista.com/tech/laptops/Toshiba-Satellite-L305-L305D/remove-screen-replace-video-cable-1.htm
It explains how to remove the keyboard.
July 7th, 2011 at 8:28 pm
Can this (cord wiggling) cause Toshiba laptops not to charge? My cord is broken like the example pic, has been for awhile and it was fine, not too bothersome as it worked but one day my laptop quit charging, I have absolutely no idea as to why, I didn’t touch the laptop all day when it was charging and all of a sudden it quit. I took it off the charger and left it alone for a few days, put it on the charger, it charged for an hour or so and then completely quit on me. My first thoughts was that it could be the battery or the charger, I’ve bought replacements of both and still my laptop will not charge, the replacement battery did turn it on so the internals seem to be fine, it just will not recharge. Could this possibly fix my issue?
July 13th, 2011 at 7:53 pm
Thank you so much ! It was going to cost me $175 to fix my daughter’s laptop. I followed your instructions and it cost $7 for the jack and some solder.
July 13th, 2011 at 9:08 pm
I have a Toshiba Laptop L305 S5877. The power connector had come lose and my battery was dis-charging and would no longer charge. I read I read your instruction and bought a DC power connector (274-1576) at Radio Shack and replace my old broken one by soldering the wires to this connector, but when I push the power button the power LED at the bottom of the laptop blinks 6 times and then stops. I would be grateful for any ideas.
July 14th, 2011 at 6:47 am
I know I did this right, and it worked for a few minutes. The charging light was on, but then it just stopped. I rechecked the connection to the leads. Everything was perfect. My adapter is good . I checked it with my voltometer. What do you think might be the problem ?
July 15th, 2011 at 7:52 pm
Thank you so much for posting this — it worked beautiful on this L305D.
July 15th, 2011 at 7:55 pm
Oh, one other thing — the L305D I just did this on (an L305D-S5934) had a couple changes from your guide. There are only two screws at the top holding the keyboard in, only two cables aside from the keyboard’s that need to be removed, and the screw holding the optical drive in is under the door for the RAM.
July 17th, 2011 at 8:16 am
hi i have a toshiba
but the end of the cable is hottest too much
how can i fix that
i connect my power dc into the jack but at 10 seconds its feel too hot ….
ac——dceleiminator——-filter dc—hhhoootttt–jack male………….jackfemalelaptop
the fail is between filterdvcable and the jack male
can some one help me
July 19th, 2011 at 1:03 pm
Tried this on my Toshiba Satellite L505 (not L505D) and it worked fine. Opened it up, cut out the old one (which was covered with hot glue or something), used a pocket knife to carve a larger hole, slid the new one in and then just soldered it. Didn’t have to do much in terms of the walls or anything if I remember correctly, just the ones directly preventing me from putting in the new one (behind the original jack). Enough space that I decided not to cut off the lead (- end) of the new jack and it’s been working great since then. Been using it for about a week without even a hiccup.
Word of caution to others though: there are other parts directly adjacent to where you want to do the work and if you are not experienced soldering you can damage them. I had someone assist me during the whole thing to make it easier, you know, hold stuff in place for me and what-not.
July 24th, 2011 at 4:38 pm
Success! We bought the part at our local radio shack (walk with the part number, the sales rep was clueless as to what we needed even after we pointed it out what we were looking for on a laptop in the store). We bought the sodering iron,,(pat on the back for our first attempt at doing something like this) and voila we had the part in after cutting a bigger hole for the fit, we then attached the wires, plugged everything back in and it worked!..All under an hour!.. We did try calling Toshiba first, (Toshiba Satellite L655) but the customer service rep didnt take responsibility to what is an inherent flaw in their machines. They said the warranty doesnt cover rough use or whatever it was we did to break the jack. We only had the laptop for 3 months before the adapter jack broke! I’m very disgusted with Toshiba and shame on them. I’ve saw more complaints on other blogs for the same issue. …Thanks for giving my husband and I (complete non-techies) a chance to feel like pros at a do-it-yourself task…..your instructions were perfect! Now on to give Toshiba a bad rating somewhere where it counts… (Be warned,, the painful part to this was putting back in a million screws),,,
July 29th, 2011 at 4:32 pm
This fix also worked on my Toshiba Satellite A355D-6889. Thanks for the great instructions!
August 2nd, 2011 at 6:49 pm
Thanks A LOT for this write up! The jack on my L305D broke today. Went to radio shack, bought the stuff I needed, and now everything is back up and going! Toshiba should have done this in the beginning instead of the cheap plastic that they use.
August 7th, 2011 at 5:56 pm
did this fix this morning.. worked great, thanks for the help..you are awsome
August 11th, 2011 at 11:37 am
Followed all directions & works like new. Great instruction and photos.
August 12th, 2011 at 7:09 am
I have a satelittle A505-S6980 will this work for it?
August 15th, 2011 at 10:47 am
Thanks for the VERY useful guide, followed it and repaired a Tosh L350D laptop. one happy me & one happy customer. :0)
August 17th, 2011 at 3:52 pm
I followed the directions, didn’t work. Any other suggestions?
August 20th, 2011 at 10:40 pm
i followed everything you said worked great on a L505 used same powerjack and all thanks for the help
August 21st, 2011 at 5:47 pm
Worked great on a Toshiba Satellite L305-5591. This one had been loose for a long time and finally one of the wires broke. New jack is definitely better than original.
August 23rd, 2011 at 5:21 am
Worked great on Satellite A505-S6960….Awesome directions…
August 24th, 2011 at 7:33 am
Could the broken/loose jack also be why i have a clicking noise all of a sudden? a very soft click click. pause. click click. pause….etc…
August 25th, 2011 at 9:40 am
Used this guide to repair an L305-S5865 and an L505-S5990. The disassembly guides were a little off as there were a few more screws hidden and different plugs to watch for, but the installation was the same. Thank You for posting.
August 25th, 2011 at 3:45 pm
the first time I did that it did not work but it was right my cord was dead. after I replace the cord it worked great thank you!!!
August 27th, 2011 at 10:33 pm
Worked like a charm … after a local computer repairman told my girlfriend it wasn’t even worth repairing, that it would cost so much she should just buy a new laptop. I owe you, man. Your instructions and photo were so easy to follow, even someone who knows nothing about repairs was able to get it right the first time.
August 27th, 2011 at 10:35 pm
Sorry, just posted but forgot the mention the model number. L355D. Thanks again, my friend.
August 28th, 2011 at 1:43 pm
I did and it worked for a second but my charger keeps beeping! Why is this? Did i do something wrong?
August 28th, 2011 at 6:51 pm
I’m confused do the red + wires have to go into the small lead hole cuz its hard for me to fit the wires in… and idk if i used too much solder but i did everything right and my Toshiba L505 laptop still wont charge and some of the wires are a little brown could that be the reason why its not working… because i burned the wires while soldering… I just dont know what to do hahaha =/ any help plz…
August 30th, 2011 at 8:53 pm
Just wanted to leave this command to thank you for putting this together. I was hoping for a Google+ button I could click.
August 31st, 2011 at 11:48 am
I followed the directions completely and it worked great. But I seem to not have my touchpad working. I get an error code 24. I uninstalled it and reinstalled it but the touchpad won’t work. What should I do? Thanks!
September 2nd, 2011 at 5:45 pm
Outstanding step by step detailed instructions..worked on Satellite L355-S7817. I will be fixing a friends Toshiba now that I know it works after doing mine. Toshiba can suck it with that cheap piece of **** part they got in there. This new plug is ROCK SOLID. Lots of room in the case for the plug..little modding done. Only removed the plastic where the plug sat. Thank you donation to follow!! World to the wise..invest in a good soldering gun..I thought the battery type (cordless) would be nice and easy but they are junk made in China now. Get the old school type and get it done right.
September 4th, 2011 at 3:35 am
I found these instructions very helpful. I was able to source the panel mounted DC jack here in the UK from http://www.radioshackonline.co.uk. The UK equivalent part from Maplin was too small to fit the rather wide circular socket on an L300 model. The opening instructions were excellent and my neighbour’s Toshiba is now working again. I repaired the socket and by shear coincidence her charger was faulty which she has now replaced. Thanks so much.
September 6th, 2011 at 12:29 am
Grrrrrrreat instructions…!!
Bought jack from http://www.radioshackonline.co.uk £2.95 via paypal, arrived nextday,
Laptop Tosh L350D, back up and running that night, had a quote of £75 from local LRS, saved £72.05 and the wait for it to get done.
September 8th, 2011 at 10:38 pm
Great article but you didnt mention the damage would not have occurred if companies like best buy carried the proper power chord sold by toshiba. I found one at a new store on the east coast for less than the pos I bought from best buy. There is also another alternative. I used a plastic welder and rewelded my power jack in place then purchased a toshiba chord. still in place and works great.
September 9th, 2011 at 6:47 am
@ clayton,
It happens even with original Toshiba adapters.
September 14th, 2011 at 7:46 am
Am about to do this with a Toshiba L355. Am a computer novice (though I did replace a screen on a nintendo DS by following an online thread like this) and haven’t soldered since boy scouts.
You say “check the polarity” before applying power –
What do you mean by that? Just make sure red is central and the other is on the outside lead?
Thanks
September 16th, 2011 at 2:02 pm
Excellent! I did this for my Toshiba Satellite L305D-S5897 model number PSLC0U-01U01H and it worked perfect. I didn’t trim the negative connection on the ac plug however I then had to bend the wires more. Great job on the pictures and directions.
To remove the DVD drive on this laptop, following these directions http://www.irisvista.com/tech/laptops/Toshiba-Satellite-L355D/laptop-disassembly-2.htm, you have to remove the cover in the middle of the back where the ram is and there is a screw there for the DVD drive.
September 16th, 2011 at 5:08 pm
I used these instructions to fix an L505D. I used the same power jack from Radio Shack. My laptop’s original power jack did not seem loose/broken but I used a multimeter to test the voltage and it was fluctuating from 13-19.5, so I figured it was the problem. When I replaced it with the Radio Shack power jack, the multimeter tested a steady 19.5. I did have to drill the hole of the case a bit larger but then just threaded the power jack into the case and didn’t have to remove the side plastic that held the original power jack. I consider it a huge success because my A/C adapter now charges/powers the laptop and I only had 2 screws left! Thanks so much!
October 1st, 2011 at 2:07 pm
thanks for that! YOUR EFFORT HAS HELPED A LOT OF PEOPLE
October 6th, 2011 at 6:39 pm
Excellent tutorial , worked great. Thank you very much
October 10th, 2011 at 7:52 am
What do you do if you do all of this. But no charge is getting to the battery or pc still?
October 13th, 2011 at 10:40 pm
i replaced my power jack on my Toshiba L355D now the laptop will not turn on. Can you help please thanks
October 16th, 2011 at 3:51 pm
can i still use the adaptor? because my adaptor is still fix, when i put the cord of the charger then it loose . but before that my adaptor is still working
October 20th, 2011 at 1:02 pm
Tutorial is great! Changed my DC jack using the said jack from Radio Shack. Took me about 30 min for this project! I’ll say again great tutorial!
October 30th, 2011 at 11:28 am
Thank you this fixed my Toshiba l305d-s5897 adapter socket problem. I am not good at soldering so it took me about an hour in total to change the old jack with this one. Sometimes When i plug in the adapter I have to turn it in the socket to get power to the laptop (maybe i didn’t solder the jack properly)
November 12th, 2011 at 9:48 am
Thank you very much. I just fixed my C655D-S5136. Awesome Instructions.
November 15th, 2011 at 1:29 pm
can you tell me how to replace or resolver a probem with my X205-S9800 DC jack? thanks
November 15th, 2011 at 2:00 pm
@ Matthew,
In a Toshiba Satellite X205 the DC jack is not soldered to the motherboard. It’s attached to the power harness.
It means you don’t have to solder anything. If the DC jack failed, you disconnect it from the motherboard and plug in a new one.
I published Satellite X205 disassembly instructions here:
http://www.irisvista.com/tech/laptops/Toshiba-Satellite-X205/take-apart-laptop-1.htm
You can see where DC jack connected to the motherboard in the step 21 (Page 3).
I don’t think it’s necessary to remove the motherboard but you’ll have to remove the VGA connector board in order to access the jack.
November 21st, 2011 at 6:23 pm
Just finished up with my daughter’s Toshiba A300. I had to get the part from Mouser Electronics because The Source (Canada’s old Radio Shack) no longer stocks the one you suggested. The part number is 163-4024 and cost $2.90 (shipping was 8 bucks but I ordered two). The only problem is her A300 hole was a bit large so I used the washer/ring on the outside instead of the inside and all went perfect. Thanks for the great tutorial.
November 23rd, 2011 at 3:34 pm
someone come do it for my L500
j/k I make due.
November 24th, 2011 at 12:19 am
Thank you…. Easy steps with show pictures.
November 24th, 2011 at 2:40 pm
@ Kansas Allen,
I’m glad this guide worked for you.
November 24th, 2011 at 2:42 pm
I have had to do a similar fix on my Acer Aspire One AOD250, i dont recall if the jack size is the same, but its the exact same concept. The internal plastic walls break causing the jack to not sit solid in the frame, replacing with an after market connector (exactly as you did) fixes the issue. Space in the netbook was not an issue (i may post pictures and more information when/if i tear the unit down again! Thanks for this great help!
November 24th, 2011 at 3:05 pm
@ Jen,
You don’t want to try it yourself?
This guide explains how to remove top cover assembly from a Toshiba Satellite L500/L505 notebook:
http://www.irisvista.com/tech/laptops/Toshiba-Satellite-L505-L505D/remove-laptop-motherboard-1.htm
If it looks difficult, you should take it to the professional repair shop.
November 25th, 2011 at 12:16 pm
Fantastic tutorial. Works like a charm. Bought everything i need from radioshack. Thanks
December 1st, 2011 at 4:46 pm
Hey Laptop Tech…Nice Job…repair looks sweet. Found yer site whilst browsing for the broken ac connector cable in a L355. Find them cheap enough, however, I agree that your method is easy, cost effective and would most likely eliminate future issues with the connector. It’ brilliant that you invest so much time and energy to help others. My hat is off to you. Take care, Jim
Jims PC Sales and Service, Pasco Fl.
December 4th, 2011 at 12:31 pm
Thank you. Your tutorial was very helpful!
December 4th, 2011 at 1:27 pm
Tried this successfully on my L305.
Didn’t need to use the nut/washer on the back of the jack, as I threaded them into the chassis plastic after reaming out the hole just enough so that it would be snug (I actually used the reamer off a 2″ pipe cutter, it worked surprisingly well, and was perfectly round). By doing it this way, I was also able to assemble and solder the harness outside the laptop, as the properly sized hole will just barely allow the choke through. This allowed me to make sure I had good solder joints under proper lighting (I had to get the iron to about 600 degrees F to tin the outside negative connector – the entire shell of the jack sinks the heat if your iron isn’t hot enough and you end up with an untinned lead or a cold solder joint)
By not using the nut, I also didn’t need to modify the top cover in any way. Glad to have this major design flaw corrected, although I’ll at least give Toshiba a little credit for not making the power jack surface-mounted on the motherboard like some laptops.
December 15th, 2011 at 4:44 pm
Excellent writeup and description.
There have so far been 5 references to epoxy as a method of repair.
I want to point out there are TWO forms of epoxy which might be used: (1) epoxy glue, a 2 part sticky liquid that hardens into a clear plastic and (2) epoxy putty, a 2-color putty-like roll of plastic that is cut off the roll with a knife (in order to choose the amount you want to mix) then mixed by kneading the material until it is of a uniform color.
Epoxy glue is of use to tack items together, the greater the contact area between the items, the stronger the joint.
After epoxy putty is mixed this way, you have about 5 minutes to apply it before it hardens to a while hard plastic. Maximum hardening takes place in 24 hours, but it gets pretty hard pretty fast. It is not as sticky as epoxy glue, but does tend to adhere to many plastics. A solid block of cured epoxy putty would be as strong as a solid block of plastic forming the OEM power jack or the material of the laptop case itself.
I examined the photos of the defective power jack on this site. It looks like the plastic ridges that were designed to hold the jack in place tend to break off after the plug is inserted enough times. The OEM ridges don’t look very sturdy at all.
Even using epoxy glue, there is very little contact area available for the glue to link the OEM power jack and the case material. The less contact area, the weaker the joint.
However, the space around the OEM jack is mostly empty, there appear to be no critical computer components near the jack, just ridges & protrusions of the OEM case material.
My suggestion: Use a sufficient wad of mixed epoxy putty to wedge the OEM jack into its original location. Don’t put the putty over any electrical component besides the side & rear of the OEM jack, and don’t use so much that you wedge other parts of the laptop in place that you might want to remove later. Just pack the putty around the OEM jack so that when the putty hardens, it will have wedged the OEM jack in place so that it can’t be dislodged by anything short of a hammer blow or a drill.
My suggestion pre-supposes that the OEM power jack, its soldered connections and the adjacent inch or so or pigtail electrical cable are all in 100% good condition, and the problem is limited to the jack breaking free from its OEM ridges & tabs that used to hold it in place.
Epoxy putty used this way could eliminate the need to replace the OEM power jack with another and the need to solder a connection.
If the OEM jack fails later (which any jack can do at any time), the hardened epoxy putty can be drilled or abraded away with a rotating burr,or cut away with a knife, and another jack installed as per the instructions on this blog.
December 19th, 2011 at 8:58 am
I want to repair my Toshiba Satellite L505. I was looking at the guide on how to take it apart, my question is do I have to remove everything from the back to open up the front part to fix the jack. I mean the Hard drive, the memory modules and the optic drive. Thanks
December 23rd, 2011 at 3:12 pm
@ Vanessa,
Yes, you’ll have to remove them because some screws located under the hard drive, DVD drive, in memory compartment.
Here’s the guide: http://www.irisvista.com/tech/laptops/Toshiba-Satellite-L505-L505D/remove-laptop-motherboard-1.htm
Go though steps 1-17.
December 28th, 2011 at 9:08 pm
Just completed this repair, worked great. Had to take apart computer twice. definitely unplug harness and solder out of the computer. Tight fit, so make sure you follow the suggestions.
December 30th, 2011 at 3:45 am
It can run on a Lenovo Y430 laptop?
December 30th, 2011 at 12:00 pm
@ Angel,
Probably yes but I’m not sure 100%.
It looks like Lenovo Y430 using a 19V AC adapter, so the generic plug might work. But I would recommend buying it first and trying to fit you your AC adapter. Also, I don’t know if Lenovo Y430 has enough space inside for this modification. It’s necessary to open it up and look inside.
If nothing is broken, I would recommend just installing the original DC jack harness, without any modification.
December 30th, 2011 at 2:56 pm
The plastic that held the power connector is broken, but not others to try it …
January 13th, 2012 at 5:26 pm
This repair was cheap and easily accomplished. I think this took no more then 30 min to complete. Directions are easy to follow and seems to be a very durable repair. Thanks a bunch!
January 14th, 2012 at 2:04 am
Hello,
I have a toshiba L300 I is do not manage to open him(it)… I have nevertheless to remove(kidnap) quite saw them but something blocks(surrounds) and I do not know what… Can use me. Thank you
January 17th, 2012 at 1:59 am
This guide is f***ing brilliant. Used this guide to fix an L355 that was given to me for free by a coworker who was quoted $325 (!!!) from a local shop to fix it. Lord only knows what Toshiba would have asked for to do the same repair. You helped me score a (nearly) free laptop! Cheers!
January 29th, 2012 at 12:44 pm
Thanks…worked perfectly on my P305D. Saved me big $$$.
January 31st, 2012 at 10:26 am
Do you have any idea how well, or what changes would have to be made for a Toshiba Satallite L645D?
And for those who are curious, Toshiba charges $229 for what they consider a minor repair, and over $300 for a major one. I’m not sure how they would try to classify this one.
January 31st, 2012 at 11:25 pm
What an eloquent description, I was able to complete the process in an hour. saved bundle of money and I was surprised that the little radio shack near my house had the part I needed. No need for me to order it. it is a tight fit and I recommend filing the terminals back about 1/32″ in order to achieve a seamless fit. One additional hint that I think might reduce the chance that you have to go back in to tighten the nut on the new jack is to lock the nut and jack with a bit of hot glue. acts like a lock washer. should assure that your jack does not become loose.
February 1st, 2012 at 4:50 am
Thank you. Well done. very comprehensive tutorial. I replaced the jack and harness.
February 1st, 2012 at 10:36 am
Fabulous instructions-clear and very precise. Thanks a lot!
Used epoxy putty so didnt need to get the soldering iron out!
Thanks for sharing.
February 1st, 2012 at 4:51 pm
@ morgan,
What is your question? Are you trying to fix the jack or just curious if L645D is more reliable?
I published Satellite L645 disassembly guide here:
http://www.irisvista.com/tech/laptops/Toshiba-Satellite-L645D-L640D/remove-laptop-motherboard-1.htm
February 5th, 2012 at 1:36 pm
What size solder did you use?
February 7th, 2012 at 9:25 am
Just did this repair on my toshiba satellite A305-S6905. I was trying to locate the part number for the base and the power jack when I came across this article. Thank you so much!
February 7th, 2012 at 5:34 pm
Thanks, I got a Toshiba 305 and works perfectly and saved money THANKS again