
The following disassembly guide will explain how to take apart a Sony Vaio PCG-K series notebooks. I created this guide while taking apart a Sony Vaio PCG-K25 notebook but I think you can use the same disassembly steps for all notebooks in PCG-K line.
The main reason to open up the laptop was replacing broken power jack. Proceed disassembly on your own risk.
Update: I just created a new guide for Sony Vaio PCG-K series laptops. It explains how to remove and replace LCD screen with inverter board.
Before you start laptop disassembly, unplug the AC adapter and remove the battery.
Are you looking for spare parts for your Sony Vaio PCG-K series notebook? Search here.

STEP 1
Carefully remove the keyboard bezel using a small flathead screwdriver. Remove it slowly, there is a flat ribbon cable connecting the power button board with the motherboard.

STEP 2
Trun the keyboard bezel upside down. The red arrow pointing to the connecto on the motherboard.

STEP 3
Unlock the connector by lifting up the top side of the connector 1-2 millimeters. Be very very careful. If you break any connector on the motherboard you are screwed big time. After the connector is unlocked, you can pull the cable and remove the keyboard bezel.

STEP 4
Remove three screws from the keyboard.

STEP 5
Lift up the keyboard and place it upside down on the palm rest. Unlock the keyboard cable connector on the motherboard. Disconnect the keyboard cable and remove the keyboard.

STEP 6
Remove all screws securing the metal cover.

STEP 7
Remove the cover.

STEP 8
After the cover has been removed, you can access and clean both cooling fans. You can clean fans with compressed air.

STEP 9
Remove two screws securing display hinges to the back side of the base.

STEP 10
Remove four screws securing display hinges. Unplug the video cable from the motherboard. Unplug both wireless card antenna cables from the wireless card.

STEP 11
Lift up and remove notebook display panel.

STEP 12
Remove hard drive cover, memory cover and modem cover from the bottom of the notebook. Each cover is secured by one screw.

STEP 13
Here’s how you can remove the hard drive. Remove four screws securing the hard drive caddy to the base assembly. Slide the hard drive down to disconnect it from the motherboard. Lift up and remove the hard drive.

STEP 14
Removing memory modules (if needed). Carefully spread latches on both sides of the memory slot. The memory module will pop up at 30 degree angle. Pull the memory module from the slot by the edges.
Removing modem card (if needed). Remove two screws securing the modem card. Lift up the modem card to disconnect it from the motherboard and unplug cable from the side.
Remove all screws from the bottom of the notebook

STEP 15
Remove two screws securing the top cover assembly. Disconnect the touch pad cable connector on the motherboard and unplug the cable.

STEP 16
Lift up and remove the top cover assembly.

STEP 17
Push the CD/DVD drive to the right side with your thumb. Remove the CD/DVD drive.

STEP 18
Remove three screws securing the plastic cover.

STEP 19
Remove the cover.

STEP 20
The power jack is hidden under the metal bracket. Remove one screw securing the bracket.

STEP 21
Lift up the bracket. Now you can access the power jack.

Release the power jack. Now you can remove the old power jack (unsolder from the harness) and replace it with a new power jack.
Static electricity can kill your laptop. I recommend wearing an anti-static wrist strap while working with internal parts of your laptop.
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January 10th, 2009 at 3:31 pm
Thanks for suggestions really appreciate it, hope that works…
Vince.
January 10th, 2009 at 2:34 pm
vince,
Check all internal connections.
In order to start any laptop with video, you need only three parts: motherboard, processor, memory.
It’s possible that when you dropped it, the CPU or memory module got dislocated.
Make sure the CPU and memory module are properly connected to the motherboard, reconnect them just in case and test the laptop again.
January 10th, 2009 at 2:18 pm
Thank for the great guide, I was looking for something like this on the Sony site and could not find it “( anyway my problem is that the laptop fell off a table and now when I power it on it just stays on for a sec then shuts off. Can you suggest what the problem might be. So far I am on step 16. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Vince
January 9th, 2009 at 10:43 pm
Adam,
Could be bad memory. You can test memory with Memtest86+.
January 9th, 2009 at 11:43 am
I’m having an issue with the Sony Vaio PCG-K45 laptop where it will randomly shut down. I tried a different AC adapter, with/without the battery, and updated BIOS. I don’t think it’s overheating because it will sometimes stay on for two or more days, and other times for only two minutes, also, it never gets very hot. Anyone have any idea what could be causing this to happen? Thanks in advance.
January 6th, 2009 at 10:18 pm
Vishal,
I don’t remember this laptop of the top of my head. Isn’t where the hard drive is located? Maybe this heat comes from the hard drive? Does it make any strange grinding noises sometimes?
Try cleaning the laptop heatsink with compressed air so the heat form the CPU/hard drive can get out. It could help.
January 6th, 2009 at 2:33 pm
Hah! Just replaced my screen. Thanks for the help; I appreciate it!
January 5th, 2009 at 11:15 pm
Hi,
I’ve a Sony VIAO VGN-BX660P Laptop. The issue is when I use it for more then 5-10 minutes or so the right side of the laptop (right side of touch pad and below the key pad area) get heated very much making it uncomfortable to work. Even though the laptop get heated very much the system operation is very smooth. Please could you advice me ASAP as what might be wrong as I’ve stopped using it fearing it might develop some problem.
Thanks,
Vishal
January 3rd, 2009 at 1:49 pm
Thanks for the replies!!
January 3rd, 2009 at 12:27 pm
Cal,
I don’t have this laptop in front of me but I believe there are only three screws on the heatsink. I searched for a picture of this heatsink and I found this one: http://www.laptopking.com/fan/744914.jpg
I see only three screws.
I think you are correct. Overtime the thermal grease might turn into a very strong glue. Be very careful removing the heatsink because most likely the CPU will come out attached to the heatsink. If it does, separate the CPU from the heatsink with a flathead screwdriver, unlock the CPU socket and secure the CPU in the socket. Only after the CPU is seated and secured, you can clean the old thermal grease from the CPU. Even if the CPU remains in the socket when you pull out the heat sink, I would recommend reseating the CPU. Unlock the socket, make sure the CPU is seated all the way down and lock the socket.
I don’t think that have to remove the display. Removing keyboard, keyboard cover and metal cover should be enough.
January 3rd, 2009 at 11:02 am
This is great information! Thanks for the posts and pictures, I know this takes time. I saw in a earlier post that removing the fan only involves removing the 3 screws on the heatsink. I have tried this, and the heatsink still feels pretty connected. My guess is that the thermal grease has turned into ‘glue.’ To get to it, I only removed the keyboard hood, keyboard, and the metal plate below the keyboard. Am I missing anything? Do I need to remove the display and strip across the top the reveal other screws? I really don’t want to apply extra force until i am certain there is nothing else that needs to be removed. I appreciate your help!
December 29th, 2008 at 9:18 pm
Chris,
I don’t have this laptop in front of me and cannot take a closer look, but isn’t it in the hole for the display hook under the right touch pad button? I’m just trying to guess.
Nope, it’s not built into the hinges.
December 29th, 2008 at 8:12 am
Hi,
I have a PCG-K33 and I’m having the same problem as Gachet with the lid always thinking it’s closed. He said that he cleaned up the lid contactor? I don’t see a lid contactor anywhere on this laptop. I’m guessing that the lid open/closed sensor is probably built into the hinges. If that’s the case, did he just dip them in alcohol to clean the contacts?
December 22nd, 2008 at 11:43 am
Mike,
Did you check if there is BIOS update for your laptop? Maybe it’s a known issue and the latest BIOS release fixes this problem.
December 16th, 2008 at 9:05 am
Hi,
In reference to #39 and #41. I have a PCG-K25 doing exactly the same thing when I tried to upgrade the memory. I’ve tried different modules and I tried switching from one socket to the other. Each socket reads the same as the other so it is not a socket issue. Any ideas? Thank you.
December 12th, 2008 at 9:03 am
Thanks a lot, I used it to change the dc connector of my pcg-k35, I noticed the metal cover in step 7 has the holes for the fans, mine doesn’t have them, I have been having overheating problems, could that be the reason?
Thanks again
Santi
December 9th, 2008 at 5:17 am
The external monitor works fine. I was in doubt about the card so your comment is right. I will go after a replacement LCD in my country.
Thanks a lot and Greetings from Brazil!
December 8th, 2008 at 2:21 pm
Gilberto,
It’s hard to tell. You’ll have to test the laptop with an external monitor. If external video works fine, apparently there is a problem with the LCD screen or video cable.
If both internal and external video fail, there could be a problem with the system board or video card.
December 8th, 2008 at 6:27 am
Hi
Great guide here. Lots of usefull info.
I received as a gift a Sony PCG-k35, but the LCD probably has gone.
The screen keeps all bright (full white to gray) flashing. Sometimes the image comes ok, but appears this component is gone. I tried to reinsert the main flat cable in the LCD back area, and I noticed another small flat cable in the LCD circuit, but too thin and I really became afraid of trying to move it as appears to be hard fixed in place.
There’s a chance to be the LCD in fault of may the video card also cause this kind of problem?
Thanks in advance!
November 26th, 2008 at 2:02 pm
Taras,
It’s possible that one of the memory slots is bad and “cannot see” the memory module installed in it.
Test your laptop with different memory modules installed into different slots. If the laptop works fine with both memory modules in the slot A but not in the slot B, the slot B is defective. If that’s the case, you’ll have to replace the motherboard or use the laptop as is with only one working slot.
November 25th, 2008 at 1:25 pm
Hi,
As I guest in my last message it was a pb with lid contactor.
I disassemble my computer and “clean up” the lid contactor. Now it’s working well (with ACPI support).
Many thanks for your help.
November 25th, 2008 at 7:30 am
Hi,
I have a problem upgrading RAMS in my VAIO PCGK35.
When I add RAMs (2×512)all I get is 448 total. I tried different compatible RAMS and still the same problem. Used RAMs as recommended by SONY support and still it did not help. PC works but RAMs total stays exactly 448 instead of 1024.
What should I do?
November 24th, 2008 at 5:23 pm
I did more tests with Ubunto live-CD with ACPI support. I seems that for Linux the lid is always closed. I alway get “closed” in file /proc/acpi/button/lid/LID/state (or something like that).
Maybe it’s a pb with lid contactor ….
I’ll try to test this one.
November 24th, 2008 at 1:26 pm
Knoppix (3.3 version) is working well with screen=1024×768 or screen=800×600.
I did more tests with Ubuntu live-CD. And after playing with many boot options, I find a solution. It’s working only if I deactivate APCPI (acpi=off).
So as it seems it’s about ACPI, I tried Windows XP without ACPI support (use “Standard PC” HAL). And it’s working well without ACPI support.
November 21st, 2008 at 4:05 pm
gachet,
I think you are correct. If the laptop works fine with Knoppix, apparently this problem is not related to the inverter board or backlight lamp.
I’m thinking maybe your LCD screen cannot handle high resolution settings? I don’t think it’s the video card because the laptop works fine with the external monitor.
Try booting into Knoppix and set hight resolution on start up. As soon as initial Knoppix logo appears on the screen press F3 and at boot: line type knoppix screen=1024×768 depth=24
Using this command you’ll be able to use the screen in 1024×768 mode instead of 800×600
I’m not sure if it’s a good test, but I guess if your backlight fails when Knoppix runs in 1024×768 mode, it could be related to the LCD screen. It’s just a guess.
November 21st, 2008 at 12:48 pm
Thank you for your responses.
> Will it work if you decrease/increase the LCD screen brightness with Fn+F5/F6 keys?
no
> Can you reduce the screen brightness in the BIOS setup menu, is there any settings for that?
No. This BIOS is very poor.
> Enter the BIOS setup menu and try reducing the brightness then start loading Windows. Will it work with reduced brightness?
no
I don’t think i’s an inverter or lamp problem.
I did somes tests with somes live-CD. For example with KNOPPIX (old one, 3.3 version) is working well : i.e. the screen is OK. This KNOPPIX can use all the height of the LCD.
I think there could be a problem with the display mode (VGA, SVGA, XVGA, ….) in the display card. With somes display mode everything is working.
With BIOS I get VGA display in the middle of the LCD.
November 20th, 2008 at 4:06 pm
gachet,
I’m thinking there could be a problem with the screen inverter or backlight lamp. Will it work if you decrease/increase the LCD screen brightness with Fn+F5/F6 keys? Can you reduce the screen brightness in the BIOS setup menu, is there any settings for that?
Enter the BIOS setup menu and try reducing the brightness then start loading Windows. Will it work with reduced brightness?
November 20th, 2008 at 3:58 pm
Shawn,
First of all, I would try reconnecting the wireless card. Maybe it’s not making good contact with the slot. Clean contacts on the wireless card with pen eraser. If still no light, apparently you have a bad wireless card.
I don’t think it’s a driver related issue. I believe the wireless card LED lights up even before Windows loads. Not sure 100% though, maybe Sony laptops are different. I just tested it on a Toshiba laptop and the wireless LED lights up when I turn on the switch even when the hard drive is removed.
November 20th, 2008 at 3:05 pm
Very good step by step guide ! I have a PCG-K315S.
I got some troubles with the screen.
When I power it up the sony logo come up but soon as windows xp loads the sreen gose black. Actually the windows/images are there but the backlight is off. It’s possible to see windows/images with strong light.
BIOS display is fine.
It works fine on external screen.
I’m prety sure that is not a driver issue. I get some very close behavior with XP instal CD: First, probably in VGA mode screen is ok and quickly the screen go black.
Have you any idea ?
November 13th, 2008 at 5:09 pm
Have a PCG-K25 with an intermittent CD/DVD drive.
I can see that the flat mylar ribbon cable has some slices through it and when moving it around the drive starts working… let go and it fails.
I know the flexi mylar ribbon cable is not repairable but it must be replaceable… where can a guy find one though.
The Sony shops all want me to drop it of and repair it for me… I’m an electronics repair tech and this seems like a simple parts swap repair with a new flexi cable from the chassis to the CD/DVD drive. Any help?